A very basic 12 volt PV system for emergency lighting.

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adam2
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Post by adam2 »

emordnilap wrote:Further question: would a step down converter require an in-line fuse?

TIA
Depends on the rest of the installation.
If the step down converter is being connected direct to a battery (which I advise against) then a fuse is essiential
If however the step down converter is being plugged into a 12 volt socket, then the socket should already be protected by a fuse which should be sufficient.
If the socket has a large fuse, say 10 amps or more, then fitting a 1 or 2 amp in line fuse would be good practice, though not truly essiential.
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Mitch
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Post by Mitch »

I realise you are concerned for the safety of those who are not so clued-up on electronics Adam, and I respect that, but there are MUCH cheaper way's to do things - if one is reasonably safety concsious.

I may be wrong, but I live in a world of 30 years ago, a rudimentary "step-down converter" can easily be made from a couple of 10 pence diodes connected in series. A Silicon diode WILL drop .6 v in a circuit. To "step down" from 12V to 9V reqiures 5 x diodes connected in series. Just get half a dozen 1N4001's from Maplin, (around a couple of pounds a hundred last time I played) and twist the wires one to the next, ensuring you have the diodes the right way round, and presto - a 12 to 9 volt "converter" which will handle almost an amp. Don't worry if you get one the wrong way round - your gadget just won't work, it won't go up in smoke, or shock you to death, or anything.

If you need more than an amp, just ask for "bigger" diodes, like 3 or 6 amp versions. Obviously this is not any where near as good as a "proper" voltage regulator, but would certainly suffice for charging Ni-Cad or Nickel Mercury Hydrides - or some such. Just don't connect the batt's you want to charge directly - make sure you are using the reccomended charger.
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adam2
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Post by adam2 »

The idea proposed above by Mitch for reducing voltage would certainly work to an extent and is undeniably cheap and simple.
A proper voltage regulator would however be better for the following reason.
If diodes with a total voltage drop of 3 volts are placed in series with a 12 volt supply, then the result will indeed be 9 volts as described.
If however the battery voltage rises to 14.5 volts then the series diodes will still drop 3 volts which will result in an output of 11.5 volts which might overstress something intended for 9 volts.

Regulated step down converters are now very cheap
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37423
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Post by emordnilap »

That regulator looks like the business and our nearest Maplins has them in stock.

1000mh - what exactly does this mean?
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Post by Mitch »

1000ma (milli-amps)= 1 amp. If your gadget needs more than this, (I think you said yours needed 400ma = .4 of an amp, so should be fine), it either wouldn't work properly, (if the step-down has protection), or the step down could be damaged, and would quite likely do your gadget in as a consquence. However, that particular Maplin one does say it is fuse protected - whether that will protect the unit and/or your gadget, or whether it will simply prevent fire is open to question.
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Post by Mitch »

The wall adapter for the charger states 9v, 400mh.
Just to clarify - do you mean 400ma/h or 400 ma?

milli-amp/hour might refer to the battery it can safely charge - the critical thing is the current drawn I.E. amps, or milli-amps. Just make sure you are reading ma off the spec plate, not ma/h, they are quite different things.
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Post by emordnilap »

Mitch wrote:
The wall adapter for the charger states 9v, 400mh.
Just to clarify - do you mean 400ma/h or 400 ma?

milli-amp/hour might refer to the battery it can safely charge - the critical thing is the current drawn I.E. amps, or milli-amps. Just make sure you are reading ma off the spec plate, not ma/h, they are quite different things.
You can probably tell from my posts, I don't know what I mean. I only read what was on the label on the wall adapter. No doubt it's Chinese so it could mean anything.
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Post by Mitch »

I think we can reasonably safely assume they mean 400ma - in which case the above Maplin step-down should be quite adequate. Let us know how well it works, if you buy one - feed back is most welcome. :)
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Post by emordnilap »

Mitch wrote:I think we can reasonably safely assume they mean 400ma - in which case the above Maplin step-down should be quite adequate. Let us know how well it works, if you buy one - feed back is most welcome. :)
OK, it's up and running. I bought the Maplin regulator and it does just what it says on the tin.

Hooked it up to my solar-charged leisure battery and hey presto, this winter all my cycling light batteries (and a couple of other battery-run household things) will be charged by solar electricity. A small step in the right direction. I have a little more knowledge and confidence now.

Thanks for your help in this everyone.

Next project: get our deep well pump off-grid. I'll get some details together and start asking questions again!
Last edited by emordnilap on 30 Oct 2008, 16:18, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Andy Hunt »

Nice one, the small successes are the ones which really get things going!!
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A dumb electrical question

Post by CountingDown »

Just getting ready to start designing my fantasy PV system, and I saw this quote over at the 12voltz website:
Did you know that low voltage lighting used through a transformer uses the same amount of power at 230v. ie. Six 12v, 20 watt downlighters powered through a transformer will use 120 watts @ 12v, however, because a transformer is used the output at 230v will be the same 120 watts, so no saving is made
Now, using my schoolboy calculations, Power = Current x Voltage, Conservation of Energy etc., that statement seems a bit of a nonsense. Surely there is the same impact on the batteries - 12v lighting without a transformer will just be drawing a higher current than the same lighting powered through a 230v transfomer.

Surely the only difference is the losses from stepping up to the 230v and then down again in the Transformer - or am I way off the mark here?

I think part of me would like to keep everything at 12v if possible, as that just feels more "efficient", and there seem to be plenty of 12v lights, small appliances and even fridges - but I still have plenty to understand before we get to the panels-on-roof stage!
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Re: A dumb electrical question

Post by adam2 »

andrew-l wrote:Just getting ready to start designing my fantasy PV system, and I saw this quote over at the 12voltz website:
Did you know that low voltage lighting used through a transformer uses the same amount of power at 230v. ie. Six 12v, 20 watt downlighters powered through a transformer will use 120 watts @ 12v, however, because a transformer is used the output at 230v will be the same 120 watts, so no saving is made
Now, using my schoolboy calculations, Power = Current x Voltage, Conservation of Energy etc., that statement seems a bit of a nonsense. Surely there is the same impact on the batteries - 12v lighting without a transformer will just be drawing a higher current than the same lighting powered through a 230v transfomer.

Surely the only difference is the losses from stepping up to the 230v and then down again in the Transformer - or am I way off the mark here?

I think part of me would like to keep everything at 12v if possible, as that just feels more "efficient", and there seem to be plenty of 12v lights, small appliances and even fridges - but I still have plenty to understand before we get to the panels-on-roof stage!
If 12 volt lamps are worked from a 230 volt supply by means of a transformer, then the total power used will be increased due to the losses in the transformer, often about 10%.
If the 230 volts is obtained from a 12 volt battery by means of an invertor, then additional losses occur in the inverter, again often about 10%
As a rough guide a 12 volt 50 watt lamp worked from 230 volts via a transformer will use in total about 55 watts, and if the 230 volts is from an invertor the total would be about 60 watts.

On small installations, lighting is generally best worked at 12 volts direct from the battery.
Useing standard 230 volt lighting from an invertor is certainly possible but has a number of drawbacks
1) the invertor has to be on 24/7 to ensure that lighting is available whenever needed. The standby losses in the invertor may require an extra two PV modules to supply these losses
2) A large invertor working a single lamp is not very efficient, sometimes less than 50% at very low load.
3) Failure of the invertor will lead to a total blackout, most inconvenient, and possibly dangerous, therefore invertors in such systems should be duplicated, which adds to the already substantial costs.
4) Most 12 volt lights are more efficient than mains ones
5) 12 volts is safer, especialy near water, pets or children.

Refrigeration is often also best at 12 volts for somwhat similar reasons, not vulnerable to invertor failure, no need to leave invertor on 24/7, and often 12 volt refrigerators are more efficient than 230 volt ones.

24 volts is worth considering on larger schemes, high efficiency 24 volt refrigeration is available, though the choice of other appliances is more limited than for 12 volts.
24 volts presents very little electric shock risk, but is more of a fire risk than 12 volts.

3 wire DC systems that give two voltages are worth considering, though they are more complex, and not recomended for beginers.
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Post by adam2 »

I have recently found a new supplier for 12 volt low energy lamps.

http://www.onsolar.co.uk/12V-11W-CFL.shtml

I have ordered some for trial purposes.

In the past I have almost allways used the "solsum" brand of 12 volt CFLs, these perform well but are expensive and are only available in 5 watt, 7 watt and 11 watt.

The supplier above offers 12 volt cold cathode compact flourescent lamps as small as 3 watts.
These would be ideal for small battery/PV emergency lighting systems, the 3 watt lamps would be roughly equal to a 15 or 20 watt mains voltage incandescent lamp.
That should be plenty for most applications other than reading or fine work.

They also offer a 20 watt 12 volt CFL, that would be likely to overtax a small system as disscussed here, unless used only briefly and without much other load.
Worth consideration in some cases.

I will report on the qaulity of these lamps when received.
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Post by emordnilap »

Excellent information, as usual adam2. Keep it up!
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Post by hardworkinghippy »

Well done from me too and thanks for the link !

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