Chainsaw advice

[snow hope]

Folks, I need to pucrchase a chainsaw to cut logs for my stove. I can collect fallen trees with my trailer, but am fed up using my trusty 21" Bowsaw to cut the logs into 16" lengths.

I have no knowlege of chainsaws, so need advice on decent makes and what I should pay for one. I will read up on use of chainsaws before buying - I have no plans to cut myself to pieces....

[Cycloloco]

Folks, I need to pucrchase a chainsaw to cut logs for my stove. I can collect fallen trees with my trailer, but .....

I have no knowlege of chainsaws, so need advice on decent makes and what I should pay for one.....

If you have no knowledge of chainsaws how do you know you need one?
Chainsaws may be powered by petrol or electricity and use massive amounts of oil to deal with metal to metal contact. They do a fast rough cut. If you are going to do the cutting at home with a mains electic supply you might do better with a circular saw so check those adverts as well.

[kenneal - lagger]

They're the same as most things, Snow. The more you pay the better it is, to a great extent. Avoid the very cheap ones and probably the top of the range professional ones and go for a mid range saw.

I've got a McCulloch that I've had for years with a 38cc engine and 16" blade which does a bit of felling and a lot of chopping. I wouldn't get a saw with an engine less than 38cc as it will only chop small stuff. With the 38cc engine, I could probably get away with an 18" blade if necessary.

Keep the bow saw, though. there may be times when it is necessary!!

I've just thought, I've had three chainsaws in 30 years and we've had 90% of our heating from wood over that time. The McCulloch cost me about ?150 and it's been serviced once and had a new arm and a couple of new chains.

[SunnyJim]

I use one of these and it's fine for everything I've needed it for, which is just the same as you. Cutting up trees for the woodburner.

http://www.stihl.co.uk/html/default_fr. ... ry=product

[MisterE]

I'd get something along the lines of the husqvarna 350. Mine makes mince meat of logs no matter what size. Regarding fuel, its not like you need to run a 4x4 is it, I think they will be very practical now and throughout PO troubles. I'll challenge anyone to log more wood in one day by hand with me on my chainsaw with one tank and an hour!

As mentioned get a bigger cc.

Next forget a saftey hard hat and face visor to stop the chainsaw, in one second the chain will hit you around 200 times I think it is, the number is not important, its the fact that it will within one second, it will cut through the visor and hard hat and you'll be laying on the floor dying probably after a kickback. Chainsaws are dangerous if not given respect and understanding. A visor is to stop flying bits hitting your face hence a good thing, a hard hat is used to protect you from anything falling out of the tree. Also you need ear muffs, and chansaw trousers.

Now if your only going to be logging up, which you probably are then buy a logmaster, they are awesome. They save your back, in all honesty the only safey gear you need is goggles and ear muffs with this bench. They free up your hands, and in 20mins you can do some serious work in a damn safe manner. I would not be without my portek!

http://www.mowers-online.co.uk/itm01064.htm (I forgot where I got mine from but that price is about right I paid ?110 del)

Also do not buy an electric chainsaw! Despite being rubbish, when they cut into your flesh they keep on going due to flesh or cotton unable to clog the spindle and even chainsaw trousers fail to work on them! If your going to scavenge and walk around and use the chainsaw out of the portek you must buy chainsaw trousers. The two types are protection all around, protection on the front. Never walk with the chainsaw on. Trust me on this most stupid accidents happen when walking to your next cut with the chainsaw on. Accept this, that if you are not using a logging bench and cutting on the deck and in the woods, you will at some point hit yourself with the chainsaw - its fact - be it a slip, gust of wind, you in a bad mood, somthing falling out a a tree, a fox or badger jumping out of a hole etc etc etc. No saftey gear and your going to bleed to death as chances are the cut will be on your legs and you wont be able to walk. Kick back seldom happens now, make sure the saw is always sharp and you dont use the tip of the saw unless trained by a professional on how to use it ie making plunge cuts. The husqi and stihl's at the better level have anti kickback devices which will stop the saw before it hits your chest or face should kick back ever happen.

I have some videos somewhere of showing you how to cut branches off logs then log up professionally with the logs on the deck (as they are too big to lift to a saw bench) I'll try and find them. Also you need a measuring bottle (?1) and chain oil. Get some saw files to sharpen it at a later date, just take it to be sharpend its only ?4, not worth ruin the chain. Think long and hard about your saftey! Either use the porteck with its chain gaurd or get the trousers - ear muffs are essential and so is a pair of goggles or visor. You can get hard hats with ear muffs on theses are great and visors that clip to them too. Your choice of saw is husqi or sthil and thats it.

Hope it helps.

Ps ebay is worth checking often they sell usa imports at peanut prices (new) I got my husqi 350 from chainsawsrus on ebay ?210!!!!!!!!!!

[MacG]

Living in Husqvarna-land but use Stihl gear. My advice: Buy the cheapest one you can find, preferably second hand. When you get tired of that one you have learned how to repair, sharpen and adjust it, and you will know exactly what you want from the NEXT saw.

I'm a little curious about the Makita gear. They have very weak representation for gasoline chainsaws here, but their electric stuff is extremely impressive. If their gasoline stuff is made to the same standards it would be like driving a Toyota.

Could the sensitive souls please ignore the following? The issue of "chainsaws" is indeed *the* hairy-arse male thing, second only to straight razors in testosterone content. Well, they say that "driving a jap car is like getting a blowjob from a gay man - nice, as long as nobody see you". So, think hard about Makita.

[SunnyJim]

In the end the choice should be made on dealer availiablility. I was drawn to Huski, but we seem to have only STHIL dealers round here. So I wen't with the STHIL. Also a less powerful saw gives more confidence at first. As MacG says, learn with a cheap saw, and if you need it get a bigger one later. I'm quite happy with my little 180 and it does everything I need.

[RenewableCandy]

Aren't there special courses you go on to get a "Chainsaw Licence" so you can use it professionally? My guess is they'd include all the safety stuff, so worth a go.

[Andy Hunt]

I have a small McCulloch petrol chainsaw which I bought for ?100 from B&Q.

I'm very, very pleased with it - superb piece of kit.

[biffvernon]

I got my big Makita from Lawson HIS Ltd. (Remember to buy the protective trousers and helmet with integral visor and ear defenders.)

[syberberg]

Aren't there special courses you go on to get a "Chainsaw Licence" so you can use it professionally? My guess is they'd include all the safety stuff, so worth a go.

If going for a chainsaw licence, get qualifed by NPTC, NOT Lantra. Lantra has a 100% pass rate and the training is crap.

NPTC Training Providers

You will be able to get basic training, from any argicultural/land based industry college.

MisterE forgot about the need for a good pair of chainsaw mitts or gloves (I prefer gloves). One should have kevlar lining to prevent you getting too badly damaged from a chain braking, and both will be lined to prevent vibration white finger.

As for what kind of chainsaw to get, go for either STIHL of Husqvarna. STIHL's are lighter, but have less torque that Huaqvarnas. There's a reason why both are seen as industry standard.

As for chain oil, there are biodegradable makes about, but the are slightly more expensive.

For more info on chainsaws in general, go here.

[redlantern]

I'm at the same stage as you - for me, the next step is the NPTC basic maintenance and operation course. Make and size will come after that, because I'll probably be using other people's kit as well.

I've seen country boys operate above head height fag in mouth, swing-arm starts, cutting on the floor using trainered feet to brace the log, the whole works. But the commonality was they were tough people who were operating well inside their personal strength and endurance, and at their own speed.

[emordnilap]

Here's a page from Lawson's catalogue. Which would posters recommend? BTW, the braces look awesome!

[syberberg]

The only time I ever use a swing arm, or drop start technique is on a stroppy 'saw. Usually the pull cord isn't at the right tension or the spark plug are covered in carbon. IF you're having to start a 'saw that way, it's time to take it into the workshop and give it a good clean, etc.

As for PPE trousers, I wear Type-C chaps. I find full trousers make me sweat far too much. As it is, in a full day's felling I'll get through at least 2ltrs of water.

Oh, and don't forget yer boots! I've got a pair of arb boots, the difference being that they have a steel bar running along the sole. But a pair with steel heel and toe and kevlar front is more than enough for groundwork.

[Bedrock Barney]

Bought a Husqvarna 345 (18 inch) last summer along with helmet, gloves and trousers. Whole package cost ?450.

Very pleased with the chainsaw. Given it a couple of hard sessions of work and I was the one knackered at the end of it. Agree about the trousers. I was sweating buckets last time round - better than hacking a chunk out of my leg I suppose! The dealer told me a cheery tale of some local chap who'd managed to cut the main artery in his thigh and had bled to death in his own wood - bet he sells a pair of trousers each time he tells the story!

I suspect that a cheap and cheerful B&Q saw would prove to be frustrating in the long run.