Wood / Solid fuel burning stoves

snow hope · Post by **snow hope** » 01 Nov 2006, 01:01

hehehe Sally - yes Temple crossroads - they are quite good but not cheap - he did give me a bit of discount.... deal not done yet - so if you know of somewhere doing a better deal let me know quick!

stumuz · Post by **stumuz** » 01 Nov 2006, 08:07

Have a look at www.naturalheating.co.uk .
We got our 10 kw with back boiler from there, the service and advice was good.
? 350 for the stove excluding 6'' chimney pipe, have fun putting the flue liner and vermiculite down the flue, I thought this would be the easy bit but 150 year old chimney took me 2 days.

Bandidoz · Post by **Bandidoz** » 01 Nov 2006, 12:11

I saw this in the current edition of "Homebuilding and Renovating". Looks good (fire + mass device):

http://www.nunnauuni.com/english/

MisterE · Post by **MisterE** » 02 Nov 2006, 15:27

snow hope get the double door if you can, much better for refueling, no smoke in the room then

http://www.stovecentre.co.uk/index.htm these are normally cheap

?591 double door ?561 single door inc vat

For you flue stuff I would go with, http://www.fluesystems.com/ used them twice now and all stuff perfect and fast del.

Get some stove paint for your model too

(spray can)

I'll have pictures of mine up soon

http://www.bakersandlarners.com/catalog ... ts_id/3593

snow hope · Post by **snow hope** » 02 Nov 2006, 16:51

Thanks MisterE

When I looked at that stove, it appeared that is was easier to open a single door and refuel. I presume you feel that is not the case? I have never had a stove before so just don't know. I am going matt black, flat top (to have basic cooking facilities if I ever should need them).

I will be ripping out my Rayburn Rhapsody 16" open fire which currently goes up into the chimney. I note that at about 84cm above the floor tiles of the fireplace there is a plywood type ceiling, which I assumed I would just need to put the flue into - so I thought I would just need 2 feet of flue. I suppose it is not as simple as that then??

Now I get the feeling I am about to open a can of worms. I hope to buy it tomorrow and fit it myself...

MisterE · Post by **MisterE** » 02 Nov 2006, 17:09

I should have my full install from scratch all on a web page by the weekend for you to look at. Its not perfect as I used lots reclaimed stuff other than the flue liner. But you should use a flue liner and insulate it. But untill I get all the info up online here's a piccy of mine to keep you warm. I'd go for two door if you got the choice, better defo and they dont look like a massive coffin when empty

But the choice is yours - mine defo with 1 door shut doest let any smoke into the room when opening it

I still got some tiling to finish off on it though

Taken in the dark

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I love it, nice n toasty

I'll be glad though when I finish the renovation and get the hosue back to normal, hence no pictures up rofl

snow hope · Post by **snow hope** » 02 Nov 2006, 17:40

That looks brilliant!

Joules · Post by **Joules** » 02 Nov 2006, 18:09

snow hope wrote: I thought I would just need 2 feet of flue. I suppose it is not as simple as that then??

It never is, is it?

My understanding of the flue part of a stove (and bear in mind that this is a bloke who hasn't actually got one

) is that you would have a solid or flexible (steel) flue, the same diameter as it leaves the stove, running the full height of the chimney. To ensure a good draw, this needs to be insulated (just like everywhere else), so you back-fill the cavity between steel flue and chimney with an appropriate insulation material, such as Micafil.

I suppose you could try it your way first to see if you get any problems...

snow hope · Post by **snow hope** » 03 Nov 2006, 21:28

I am now the proud owner of a Stovax Stockton 8.

With 2 out of the 4 fire bricks cracked and broken - a job for tomorrow morning to get them replaced.

What a job I had getting my old Rayburn Rhapsody open fire out though! The chimney sweep came and did his business - all was fine. I started to dismantle as much of the old fire as was possible and then discovered that the fire-board around the top of my sunken fire place was in fact metal sheet and had rusted in a few places. So I spent 2 hours extracting that board, eventually getting my old fire out as well. pheew!

I have been out and got a new 6mm fireboard which of course won't fit in without me removing the whole fireplace surround from the wall - nightmare.... So at the moment we have a big empty space with a fire-bord 3/4 in reducing the draught up this massive chimney which narrows to the normal pot liners the rest of the way up.

From what I can see though I don't need a flue liner because I have impervious pot liners - house built in 1975.

Next decision will be taken by my good wife - should we replace the old black tiles with something more welcoming - I think I know the answer to that one.

Keela · Post by **Keela** » 04 Nov 2006, 08:11

Hehe Simple jobs quickly escalate!! When my OH starts a job and gives me a time estimate I always scale in a multiplication factor - that usually applies to the costing as well!!!

Looking forward to a toasty roasty pic of the stove in action.

Last year we ripped out an old wood burner & replaced it with a glass fronted gas fire!!

Not as mad as it sounds as the old burner had had its day (& took at least an hour to warm up & once going it got the room so hot it was almost impossible to stay in there). At least now the gas is only on when required. Long term however it will be replaced now that we are peak aware.....

....oh & our gas fire was bought at Temple too!

Andy Hunt · Post by **Andy Hunt** » 04 Nov 2006, 10:53

snow hope wrote:That looks brilliant!

I will second that!!! Gorgeous!!!

Bet you're lovin' it in this cold weather!

MisterE · Post by **MisterE** » 04 Nov 2006, 19:31

Great news snow hope and thanks to you n adny for the comments. Well been up on two roofs today doing the micafill insulation. Defe makes a big difference to the firebox temperature. I'm hoping to get a web page together asap so other people can see the job start to finish as it may help them

Andy Hunt · Post by **Andy Hunt** » 05 Nov 2006, 10:09

MisterE wrote:I'm hoping to get a web page together asap so other people can see the job start to finish as it may help them

I would definitely say so . . . this kind of resource is going to be invaluable as time goes on. Make sure you put a hit counter on there, so you know how many people you are helping!!

snow hope · Post by **snow hope** » 06 Nov 2006, 17:42

Any builders out there - can I ask do you know if 6mm fireboard should be used all round the fire in additions to the ceiling / throat? ie the back and 2 sides?

I ask this because I have removed the old tiles from my inglenook type fireplace which were mounted on a 4 inch thick lump of concrete/brick which has also been removed from each side of the fire to increase the size. I am also thinking of removing the same from the back of the fire - to make it a little deeper (more inglenook-like according to my wife). So it is then back to the concrete breeze block on all 3 sides (the chimney itself is external to the house thus providing the inglenook feature)

Also what about insulation - does the 6mm fireboard do this or should I be buying something else? I just don't know about all this stuff...... as you can see.

Post by **kenneal - lagger** » 06 Nov 2006, 18:18

How thick is the wall behind the fire, snow hope? Is it cavity and insulated? You can get a significant insulation return by putting foil behind a radiator which runs at 60 to 70deg C. Just think about the worth of putting foil behind a radiator at 100 to 200 deg C, i.e. your fire. Insulating the wall would also be useful to keep the heat in the room. Fireboard and a foil faced cavity would be useful but you would do better with the addition of 50 to 100mm of Rockwool as well.