Wood / Solid fuel burning stoves
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- biffvernon
- Posts: 18538
- Joined: 24 Nov 2005, 11:09
- Location: Lincolnshire
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Yes willow and poplar are the obvious choice for fuel wood, but willow needs a lot of drying out before you put it in your woodstove. Many varieties of eucalyptus are not very frost tolerant so be careful which you plant if in an exposed location. Leylandii (of suburban hedge fame) grows very fast. It probably has one of the highest calorific values. Putting the dried green stuff on a fire has a similar effect to pouring on petrol. Quite exciting. You may get problems with tar in the chimney if it is burnt slowly. Leylandii is also an excellent building timber if allowed to grow large. The wood is strong and is one of the most rot restistant softwoods, containing some natural fungicedal chemicals.
If people are considering getting woodburning stoves, can I suggest asking on your local Freecycle list, www.freecycle.org.
This weekend we have collected a Jovul NR404-2. It needs some attention but any parts we now buy will be less than the cost of getting a new stove.
This weekend we have collected a Jovul NR404-2. It needs some attention but any parts we now buy will be less than the cost of getting a new stove.
Have you made a progress on this Snow Hope?snow hope wrote:
I am considering a Charnwood Country 15B stove which gives out 2.5KW to the room and 13KW to the DHW and radiators. Are there other models I should consider?
I've also switched my attention from the Clearview stoves, which seem to be less boiler friendly, to the Charnwood.
It's a small point, but, although the 15B can heat 12 radiators, it has an angled canopy, whereas the 14B has a flat top, which might make it better for boiling water/cooking on. However, it's only designed for 10 radiators (do you have to heat them all at once?). The 14B also puts slightly more heat into the room.
Charnwood say that 'All pipework in the primary circuit must be 28mm diameter', but they also told me that you cannot fit one of their stoves into an unvented/pressurised system - a fact that Bozzio denies - and I would therefore question their technical advice.
Hi Joules,Joules wrote:Charnwood say that 'All pipework in the primary circuit must be 28mm diameter', but they also told me that you cannot fit one of their stoves into an unvented/pressurised system - a fact that Bozzio denies - and I would therefore question their technical advice.
Charnwwod are indeed correct; you cannot install a pressurized heating system, radiators or hot water, using a solid fuel stove. I don't believe I have ever said that you can.
The reason is simple. A solid fuel fire is limited in the control of heat it produces. If the fire becomes too hot then a pressurized sytem could explode taking your house with it. Gas and oil boilers have controllable heat output due to their thermostats and burners.
What I have always stated as an option is to use a thermal store for your hot water. The thermal store is an open vented system and therefore allowable under regs. It does however have mains pressure water running through it, which is separate to the water in the stove, and this provides you with hot water delivered at high flow rates and pressures to your taps.
Hope this helps.
Joules, I made no progress with this as I also discovered I couldn't do it because I have an unvented/pressurised system!Joules wrote:Have you made a progress on this Snow Hope?snow hope wrote:
I am considering a Charnwood Country 15B stove which gives out 2.5KW to the room and 13KW to the DHW and radiators. Are there other models I should consider?
I've also switched my attention from the Clearview stoves, which seem to be less boiler friendly, to the Charnwood.
It's a small point, but, although the 15B can heat 12 radiators, it has an angled canopy, whereas the 14B has a flat top, which might make it better for boiling water/cooking on. However, it's only designed for 10 radiators (do you have to heat them all at once?). The 14B also puts slightly more heat into the room.
Charnwood say that 'All pipework in the primary circuit must be 28mm diameter', but they also told me that you cannot fit one of their stoves into an unvented/pressurised system - a fact that Bozzio denies - and I would therefore question their technical advice.
I have since decided to move house. I hope to use a stove (with or without boiler) where I move to.
Real money is gold and silver
Just thought I'd throw in my experiences - I'm getting a Yorkshire Stove with a back boiler from Dunsley:
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestove.htm
The main criteria for me is that I'm in a smoke control zone. The plumber kept steering me towards a Clearview, but I checked it out and although a Clearview is exempt in a smoke control zone, it isn't with a back boiler - only the Yorkshire is exempt with the back boiler. There are other options from abroad (Scandinavia?), but this was the only British one I could find which the environment agency had exempted (with a back boiler).
If anyone can further this information, please let me know!
I've also investigated whether the 'Low Carbon Buildings Programme' will fund a wood stove, and so far I've not heard back. Technically it is a wood-fuelled boiler, so it should be funded (to the tune of ?1500), but the
LCBP aren't keen on it (!) they prefer the wood pellet jobbies. Also the plumber has to be approved, and there aren't any in my area, so I've got to pay the full whack.
As for fuel, there are plenty of sources at present (ie. pre-peak). There's a local landscaper who's willing to supply a truckload of ash, ready-logged for ?50. It's well over a ton, but even at ?50/ton with a 70% efficient stove, I think you're looking at less than 2p/KWh. You've just got to deal with the mess!
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestove.htm
The main criteria for me is that I'm in a smoke control zone. The plumber kept steering me towards a Clearview, but I checked it out and although a Clearview is exempt in a smoke control zone, it isn't with a back boiler - only the Yorkshire is exempt with the back boiler. There are other options from abroad (Scandinavia?), but this was the only British one I could find which the environment agency had exempted (with a back boiler).
If anyone can further this information, please let me know!
I've also investigated whether the 'Low Carbon Buildings Programme' will fund a wood stove, and so far I've not heard back. Technically it is a wood-fuelled boiler, so it should be funded (to the tune of ?1500), but the
LCBP aren't keen on it (!) they prefer the wood pellet jobbies. Also the plumber has to be approved, and there aren't any in my area, so I've got to pay the full whack.
As for fuel, there are plenty of sources at present (ie. pre-peak). There's a local landscaper who's willing to supply a truckload of ash, ready-logged for ?50. It's well over a ton, but even at ?50/ton with a 70% efficient stove, I think you're looking at less than 2p/KWh. You've just got to deal with the mess!
Did you get it funded, I'm sure there is no funding for stoves
I've also investigated whether the 'Low Carbon Buildings Programme' will fund a wood stove, and so far I've not heard back. Technically it is a wood-fuelled boiler, so it should be funded (to the tune of ?1500), but the
LCBP aren't keen on it (!) they prefer the wood pellet jobbies. Also the plumber has to be approved, and there aren't any in my area, so I've got to pay the full whack
I dont get that quote any chance someone can explain it to me lol. Isnt this the other way around. Firstly the boiler sizes for the clearview 650 are great they areI've also switched my attention from the Clearview stoves, which seem to be less boiler friendly, to the Charnwood.
Boiler 1: (domestic) 10,000 BTU. Connections A & D
Boiler 2: (baffle) 27,000 BTU. Connections A, B, C & E
Boiler 3: (wrap-around) 45,000 BTU. Connections A, B, C & E
Plus all of these can be replaced without throwing out the stove. Yet the charnwood are all integral and can not therefore be replaced (I think). I've looked at every stove around and I got to be honest at the moment I think the clearview 650 is the best around for a 3-4 bedroom home with normal heating requirements. I think this is the one I'll be buying for my home. But if anyone got any further advice I'm all ears. Thanks Phil
EG http://www.charnwood.com/boiler-model-8b-mkII.asp
We have decided not to move house.
We still want to install a stove. I now want to do it before this winter. My existing central heating system is a very old oil boiler with a pressurised system.
Really, I want a stove with an integral boiler so that every time we light a fire (most nights in the winter) we get hot water in our radiators. I know I would regret putting in a stove with no boiler... so I don't want to do this.
My simple question is, what is involved in switching from my existing pressurised system to a system where I can have a solid fuel stove with a boiler? Any idea of the level of cost involved? My house is quite a large chalet bungalow with 5 bedrooms (about 2,500 sq ft). Of course the fire is at the opposite end of the house to the DHW tank (both) on the ground floor. Cold water tank is in the roofspace as usual.
Any help to solve this issue would be much appreciated before I get somebody in to give me detailed quotes.
We still want to install a stove. I now want to do it before this winter. My existing central heating system is a very old oil boiler with a pressurised system.
Really, I want a stove with an integral boiler so that every time we light a fire (most nights in the winter) we get hot water in our radiators. I know I would regret putting in a stove with no boiler... so I don't want to do this.
My simple question is, what is involved in switching from my existing pressurised system to a system where I can have a solid fuel stove with a boiler? Any idea of the level of cost involved? My house is quite a large chalet bungalow with 5 bedrooms (about 2,500 sq ft). Of course the fire is at the opposite end of the house to the DHW tank (both) on the ground floor. Cold water tank is in the roofspace as usual.
Any help to solve this issue would be much appreciated before I get somebody in to give me detailed quotes.
Real money is gold and silver
These days we are conditioned to believe that we need to have nice hot radiators warming the whole of our houses when in fact for thousands of years (when huge amounts of easy energy wasn't available) we got by heating water when we needed it for bathing and rooms individually when we wanted to sit in them.
If you connect your wood burning stove to any sort of water tank to store hot water you will enevitably take alot of the heat you were going to heat your space with and put it into the water store.
As energy becomes more difficult to come by I am not so sure that you will be happy with a choice of system that means you need to import more fuel to your house than necessary (either because of cost or availability or both).
I think an energy review type questionnaire might be good fun looking at different instalations available,insulation, solar, stoves, stores, double glazing, solar gain and then having some sort of rating. I found one of these on an energy website - I'll see if I can find it again!
In my view keep things simple. If you want to have a warm house the most efficient way at the moment is to super insulate your home before you put any heat in.
If you connect your wood burning stove to any sort of water tank to store hot water you will enevitably take alot of the heat you were going to heat your space with and put it into the water store.
As energy becomes more difficult to come by I am not so sure that you will be happy with a choice of system that means you need to import more fuel to your house than necessary (either because of cost or availability or both).
I think an energy review type questionnaire might be good fun looking at different instalations available,insulation, solar, stoves, stores, double glazing, solar gain and then having some sort of rating. I found one of these on an energy website - I'll see if I can find it again!
In my view keep things simple. If you want to have a warm house the most efficient way at the moment is to super insulate your home before you put any heat in.
The impression I got from the retailer of Clearview stoves was that their performance was seriously impaired by the addition of a boiler and, although the general setup makes Clearview very flexible, Charnwood are more geared to providing hot water - it just seemed to me that the Charnwood stoves (e.g. http://www.charnwood.com/boiler-model-14b.asp) were less compromised. But hey, whatever's best for you.MisterE wrote:I dont get that quote any chance someone can explain it to me lol.I've also switched my attention from the Clearview stoves, which seem to be less boiler friendly, to the Charnwood.
I think that Snow hope and I are both in the same boat with a pressurised central heating system. My understanding is that we would have to undergo majorly expensive modifications to have a multifuel stove provide heat to existing radiators - in my case that would involve throwing out a very smart, very efficient and very new (relatively speaking) gas condensing boiler/hot water cylinder combination.
Then I read Pippa's post and thought 'maybe we are trying to cling to our existing creature comforts too much - we've become complacent and (metaphorically) fat'. I agree with you Pippa: forget the radiators, insulate your house as thoroughly as possible and consider (as I am) having 2 stoves if you have a bigger house... think Victorian lifestyle.
I still have to face a heck of a bill for fettling the hot water, but that's another story...
Hi Joules thanks buddy for your reply, its all research in it and its not easy finding the best for you own situation. What I found out and what clearview mean (I Think) is that with a boiler the stove can not be used in smoke free zones leaving only the yorkshire dunsely that can. But that said it must still be better than the rest, that could never be used in a smoke free zone even without a boiler. I think clearview on their webpage seem to be the only ones who honestly state what a boiler does to the stove ie cools it down and makes it less efficient. However, guess what, the 14b is at the top of my list also as I can get it at a good price. The reason I haven?t gone with Charnwood is the combinations don?t mach my home of boiler and heat to room and I don?t think these integral boilers can be changed at a later date. But I?m not 100% sure on it, waiting for Charnwood to get back to me. I don?t want a stove that has to be thrown away when the boiler finally fails. So much to think about in it, but again thanks for the info two heads are better than one and I?m open to everything so again many thanks
Snow Hope
It will cost roughly ?2000ish to fit it yourself I've been researching for 4 months solid. I have 20yrs experience in the building trade and a good bit of plumbing experience. I'll try to make this simple and short.
Rip out all of your system and keep what you can. But keep all the rads and their piping in place.
Fit a twin coil cylinder either in the loft or upstairs if you got one (?200-300). You could use a combi cylinder so that you don?t need a head tank of water. If not then fit a header tank above the cylinder somewhere.
You'll need to fit a smaller header tank too for central heating.
Buy a stove that has a boiler that can be changed!!!!! I'm going for a clearview 650 with 27,000 BTU back boiler. ?1500 ?100 for flue system. For me its enamel vitrous pipe then Flexible Stainless Steel flue and the fill stack with correct insulation to keep flue hot.
Before you even consider the central heating work on a venting system to move the heat from the stove out of your living room to other rooms. In my case in the chimney stack I have fitted two ducts which take air from above the stove to two upstairs bedrooms. Your goal here is to share the heat evenly from the stove around the home. (the chimney is masonry, I have a flue installed, then its all insulated too) But you can fit ducts anywhere. This will help cool the main room down with the stove firing hot and lighten the load on the central heating system.
Plus reading between the lines on pippas post. Lets say fuel gets scarce, really scarce! Then a boiler burns more wood/fuel quite a bit more. If you have a changeable boiler you can take it out! Run the stove (which most cant by emptying the boiler) and rely on your ducting and burn less fuel. Or you could even switch to a 10,000 btu boiler and do just hot water and one rad (heat leak rad). Hence your system would have abit of flexibility to change with the times, providing the times don?t change so bad that we are burning our old shoes, carpets, book cases etc lol
Work out your boiler size and remember you also got the heat of the stove that can be send to other rooms!
I'm fitting a 27,000 btu back boiler to power 3-4 rads upstairs, and one tank in loft and one rad in the bathroom known as a heat leak (ie this is used on the cylinder run with 28mm pipe to convect heat when/if the tank is getting close to overheating ie it provides an outlet for extra heat from the boiler ? stoves cant be turned off quick so heat must be able to go somewhere.
People forget one thing with stoves. Go back to your gas set up, do you have all the rads on full and the gas fire on full errr no. But with a stove that?s what you could get in a bad design. Don?t forget the stove will be on and will space heat your living room and your kitchen next to it probably. Hence it is highly unlikely that you will have the rad on in the living room and kitchen. If you duct to upstairs then you wont need much out of two other rads either. Now count how many rads you really want to power, its no longer around 8-9 I bet.
Imagine this a stove that?s cheapish ie lets take a broseley
http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/pr ... cts_id=200
You got 5.5kw to get rid of to the room, that?s a nice amount, then 2.5kw to heat the tank which will also do another rad (heat leak) Then you are left with 12kw to power 12 rads rofl
Or take the 12b you have 4kw to room. To water 2.5kw. To central heating 6kw, enough to power 9 standard size single radiators. Nine rads!
Now remember one rad will be powered from the heat leak, the living room one will be off and you?ll be sitting out on the drive to cool down if your pumping heat into a room with no ducting that?s say 7m X 4m in a home with good insulation.
Plus all these so called heating needs are base on -1c that people give out. Now its not often -1c, imagine trying to lose that heat in late autumn or early spring. Pippa is right in many respects we waste lots of energy and go for overkill want it now and that to me is not only the way not to go but it can also make the home uncomfortable.
I?d really think about this when designing. Look at the stove output to the room with the boiler output. Ask can you send that heat from the stove out of your living space. Imagine how hot it would be in early spring and late autumn. Sit and really think about your needs with rads and take into account that your fire is lit unlike having gas central heating where by you do no have the gas fire on 3 bars all day. Clearly outputs are based on quality of fuel but I think its better to have great insulation and heat up slowly, than throw on lots of fuel sit on the drive because the room is too hot just so the central heating can heat up and have the kids room warm. Size the system right and the fire can be a pleasure and the home can heat up smoothly with central heating, hot water and a bit of space heating (ie moving the warm air around) Its better to have a smaller stove working hard than a big stove smouldering or not getting up to power because the heat to the room is too much to stand.
So if it were me I?d do this (assuming you have ground floor living and attic above not for living in and no first floor. Firstly buy a twin coil cylinder (combi if you cant fit a header tank due to room restrictions) and I?d put this vertical to the fire fit it with 28mm pipe so it will work and heat water even in a power cut. Fit partitions (like in the old days ie wood or glass panel) above your doors so that these can be opened if needed to help circulate the heat around the bungalow. Have one rad as a heat leak either in a bedroom or a bathroom. Fit a back boiler (this can still be integral and changeable) to run your rads but be sensible. Insulated the home as best you can. Then at a later date install solar hot water system into the other coil of the boiler, which is dead easy to do and will only coast around ?700 if you fit it yourself.
I probably left out lots but I hope it helps and provides food for though. I?m no expert just trying to do the same as you and have a comfortable, reliable and maintainable system. Here are some links that will help. I am not linked to any of them, they are just my links that I find most useful.
Multi Burners
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/index.htm
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestoveCH.htm
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stoves_wi ... ilers.html
Gravity fed Systems (what is it)
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/central_h ... stove.html
http://www.idealboilers.com/gravity_hot ... ating.html
Solar Systems (these firm often sell cylinders cheap and in stock)
http://www.thecei.org.uk/solarHeating/default.htm
http://www.imaginationsolar.com/systems/sys_5v3.htm
http://www.solarsense.co.uk/ (twin cylinders are available from these too)
http://www.galeforce.nireland.co.uk/solar/price.htm
Cylinders
http://www.mcdonald-engineers.com/
http://www.imaginationsolar.com/hwcyl.htm
http://www.thermomax.com/
http://www.albion-online.co.uk/
http://www.heatweb.com/ These offer thermal stores also ? but this method is pricey ? damn pricey.
Calculators for heating loads
http://www.tuscanfoundry.co.uk/heatscale.asp
http://www.idhee.org.uk/calculator.html
Flues
http://www.fluesystems.com/
Misc
http://www.itsnoteasybeinggreen.org/use ... _links.htm
I also got a great calc somewhere for working out the heating load of the home with taking lots of things into consideration ie insulation in loft and walls, double glazing etc. I?ll try n find it. I hope this has helped. Anyone wishing to add to it feel free. It would be nice to have a thread with all the stove info on it as I know I?ve spend a lot of time bloody finding stuff and would not wish that on anyone ? there is only so much google and scrolling through info and taking it all in that you can stand before you go nuts lol.
Golden Rule just remember the thing that you wish to do in essence is simple ? what hard is picking the right set up for you ie tweaking it to the max All the best Phil.
Snow Hope
It will cost roughly ?2000ish to fit it yourself I've been researching for 4 months solid. I have 20yrs experience in the building trade and a good bit of plumbing experience. I'll try to make this simple and short.
Rip out all of your system and keep what you can. But keep all the rads and their piping in place.
Fit a twin coil cylinder either in the loft or upstairs if you got one (?200-300). You could use a combi cylinder so that you don?t need a head tank of water. If not then fit a header tank above the cylinder somewhere.
You'll need to fit a smaller header tank too for central heating.
Buy a stove that has a boiler that can be changed!!!!! I'm going for a clearview 650 with 27,000 BTU back boiler. ?1500 ?100 for flue system. For me its enamel vitrous pipe then Flexible Stainless Steel flue and the fill stack with correct insulation to keep flue hot.
Before you even consider the central heating work on a venting system to move the heat from the stove out of your living room to other rooms. In my case in the chimney stack I have fitted two ducts which take air from above the stove to two upstairs bedrooms. Your goal here is to share the heat evenly from the stove around the home. (the chimney is masonry, I have a flue installed, then its all insulated too) But you can fit ducts anywhere. This will help cool the main room down with the stove firing hot and lighten the load on the central heating system.
Plus reading between the lines on pippas post. Lets say fuel gets scarce, really scarce! Then a boiler burns more wood/fuel quite a bit more. If you have a changeable boiler you can take it out! Run the stove (which most cant by emptying the boiler) and rely on your ducting and burn less fuel. Or you could even switch to a 10,000 btu boiler and do just hot water and one rad (heat leak rad). Hence your system would have abit of flexibility to change with the times, providing the times don?t change so bad that we are burning our old shoes, carpets, book cases etc lol
Work out your boiler size and remember you also got the heat of the stove that can be send to other rooms!
I'm fitting a 27,000 btu back boiler to power 3-4 rads upstairs, and one tank in loft and one rad in the bathroom known as a heat leak (ie this is used on the cylinder run with 28mm pipe to convect heat when/if the tank is getting close to overheating ie it provides an outlet for extra heat from the boiler ? stoves cant be turned off quick so heat must be able to go somewhere.
People forget one thing with stoves. Go back to your gas set up, do you have all the rads on full and the gas fire on full errr no. But with a stove that?s what you could get in a bad design. Don?t forget the stove will be on and will space heat your living room and your kitchen next to it probably. Hence it is highly unlikely that you will have the rad on in the living room and kitchen. If you duct to upstairs then you wont need much out of two other rads either. Now count how many rads you really want to power, its no longer around 8-9 I bet.
Imagine this a stove that?s cheapish ie lets take a broseley
http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/pr ... cts_id=200
You got 5.5kw to get rid of to the room, that?s a nice amount, then 2.5kw to heat the tank which will also do another rad (heat leak) Then you are left with 12kw to power 12 rads rofl
Or take the 12b you have 4kw to room. To water 2.5kw. To central heating 6kw, enough to power 9 standard size single radiators. Nine rads!
Now remember one rad will be powered from the heat leak, the living room one will be off and you?ll be sitting out on the drive to cool down if your pumping heat into a room with no ducting that?s say 7m X 4m in a home with good insulation.
Plus all these so called heating needs are base on -1c that people give out. Now its not often -1c, imagine trying to lose that heat in late autumn or early spring. Pippa is right in many respects we waste lots of energy and go for overkill want it now and that to me is not only the way not to go but it can also make the home uncomfortable.
I?d really think about this when designing. Look at the stove output to the room with the boiler output. Ask can you send that heat from the stove out of your living space. Imagine how hot it would be in early spring and late autumn. Sit and really think about your needs with rads and take into account that your fire is lit unlike having gas central heating where by you do no have the gas fire on 3 bars all day. Clearly outputs are based on quality of fuel but I think its better to have great insulation and heat up slowly, than throw on lots of fuel sit on the drive because the room is too hot just so the central heating can heat up and have the kids room warm. Size the system right and the fire can be a pleasure and the home can heat up smoothly with central heating, hot water and a bit of space heating (ie moving the warm air around) Its better to have a smaller stove working hard than a big stove smouldering or not getting up to power because the heat to the room is too much to stand.
So if it were me I?d do this (assuming you have ground floor living and attic above not for living in and no first floor. Firstly buy a twin coil cylinder (combi if you cant fit a header tank due to room restrictions) and I?d put this vertical to the fire fit it with 28mm pipe so it will work and heat water even in a power cut. Fit partitions (like in the old days ie wood or glass panel) above your doors so that these can be opened if needed to help circulate the heat around the bungalow. Have one rad as a heat leak either in a bedroom or a bathroom. Fit a back boiler (this can still be integral and changeable) to run your rads but be sensible. Insulated the home as best you can. Then at a later date install solar hot water system into the other coil of the boiler, which is dead easy to do and will only coast around ?700 if you fit it yourself.
I probably left out lots but I hope it helps and provides food for though. I?m no expert just trying to do the same as you and have a comfortable, reliable and maintainable system. Here are some links that will help. I am not linked to any of them, they are just my links that I find most useful.
Multi Burners
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/index.htm
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestoveCH.htm
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stoves_wi ... ilers.html
Gravity fed Systems (what is it)
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/central_h ... stove.html
http://www.idealboilers.com/gravity_hot ... ating.html
Solar Systems (these firm often sell cylinders cheap and in stock)
http://www.thecei.org.uk/solarHeating/default.htm
http://www.imaginationsolar.com/systems/sys_5v3.htm
http://www.solarsense.co.uk/ (twin cylinders are available from these too)
http://www.galeforce.nireland.co.uk/solar/price.htm
Cylinders
http://www.mcdonald-engineers.com/
http://www.imaginationsolar.com/hwcyl.htm
http://www.thermomax.com/
http://www.albion-online.co.uk/
http://www.heatweb.com/ These offer thermal stores also ? but this method is pricey ? damn pricey.
Calculators for heating loads
http://www.tuscanfoundry.co.uk/heatscale.asp
http://www.idhee.org.uk/calculator.html
Flues
http://www.fluesystems.com/
Misc
http://www.itsnoteasybeinggreen.org/use ... _links.htm
I also got a great calc somewhere for working out the heating load of the home with taking lots of things into consideration ie insulation in loft and walls, double glazing etc. I?ll try n find it. I hope this has helped. Anyone wishing to add to it feel free. It would be nice to have a thread with all the stove info on it as I know I?ve spend a lot of time bloody finding stuff and would not wish that on anyone ? there is only so much google and scrolling through info and taking it all in that you can stand before you go nuts lol.
Golden Rule just remember the thing that you wish to do in essence is simple ? what hard is picking the right set up for you ie tweaking it to the max All the best Phil.
Last edited by MisterE on 29 Aug 2006, 12:11, edited 4 times in total.
Just spoke to charnwood technical who where pretty good. The 14b which was on my list defo has an integral boiler with an output to water of 10.5kw (35,800btu/hr) output to room of 3.7kw (12,600btu/hr). But the boiler is welded in place and even with welding skills is hard to change they said. When the boiler fails the stove will be more or less scrap. The life expectancy of the stove is 10 - 15 yrs according to them. But also insert boilers tend not to last that long, so its swings n roundabouts. but for me I want to go down the changeable route so I'm not going for the charnwood now. Time to phone stovax now and find out if their stockton 8 can be changed
Just phoned stovax who seem to be 3 companies and not very good on the phone. The stockton 8 can be changed but is only 15,000 btu. But then they refered me to two other companies of theirs lol Yoman Stoves and some other one. Yeoman Stoves can be refitted with a boiler, so off to read their website, but they do look a bit cheap lol
Plus lack of info and conflicting info onsite - pah sod stovax they claerly cant be bothered lol
Just phoned stovax who seem to be 3 companies and not very good on the phone. The stockton 8 can be changed but is only 15,000 btu. But then they refered me to two other companies of theirs lol Yoman Stoves and some other one. Yeoman Stoves can be refitted with a boiler, so off to read their website, but they do look a bit cheap lol
Plus lack of info and conflicting info onsite - pah sod stovax they claerly cant be bothered lol