Quick question... and yes, I have googled this, but got overwhelmed with info..
Where can I pick up a VERY cheap wood/log burning stove, that has a plate on it to heat at least a kettle or a small saucepan?
Ideally under £100.
Smaller the better.
For a large shed, and to be used mostly for keeping warm in winter, with the occasional brew. ( I work mostly outdoors in an exposed location with only a shed for shelter)
Any advice on flues and fixings would be handy, as that's another minefield by the looks of it. I'm thinking of having a 45 degree bend to take the chimney out the side of the shed, so it doesn't start mucking about with the waterproofing on the roof.
cheap wood burning stove?
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cheap wood burning stove?
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- biffvernon
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Re: cheap wood burning stove?
Local code and all that.postie wrote:Quick question... and yes, I have googled this, but got overwhelmed with info..
Where can I pick up a VERY cheap wood/log burning stove, that has a plate on it to heat at least a kettle or a small saucepan?
Ideally under £100.
Smaller the better.
For a large shed, and to be used mostly for keeping warm in winter, with the occasional brew. ( I work mostly outdoors in an exposed location with only a shed for shelter)
Any advice on flues and fixings would be handy, as that's another minefield by the looks of it. I'm thinking of having a 45 degree bend to take the chimney out the side of the shed, so it doesn't start mucking about with the waterproofing on the roof.
If it is a shed or shanty that won"t cause a great hardship if you were to lose it to a fire you can get by quite nicely with a six inch diameter stove pipe thimbled through the wall with two ninty degree elbows and a shanty cap on top of the pipe which ends at least three feet above the ridge line. Sufficient guy wires on the pipe and pipe sections screwed together to keep it wind proof. If you have come out the gable end that would mean attachment points on each eve end and on the ridge cap ten feet back from the pipe or more. The thimble through the wall should be centered between two wall studs and the face of these studs and the header should be lined with stove board covered in sheet metal and both the inside and outside wall covering should be metal the width and height of the stud spacing. The inside metal should have enough holes in it top and bottom to allow inside air to enter and circulate around the hot stove pipe and return the heated air back into the room through the top holes.
I've used one of these setups for thirty years with annual fall inspections and replacements as needed.
Many more durable and more expensive options are available of course and some will hear of nothing less but that is the cheapest way to get started.
How about?
http://www.northerntooluk.com/fans-and- ... 2891E.html
Its an americain brand looks ok
http://www.vogelzang.com/browse.cfm/sta ... /4,13.html
What size is the shed you need to match the stove to the shed size really...
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/calculator.asp
Obviuosly a shed is probably alot worse insulated than most houses
Its an americain brand looks ok
http://www.vogelzang.com/browse.cfm/sta ... /4,13.html
What size is the shed you need to match the stove to the shed size really...
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/calculator.asp
Obviuosly a shed is probably alot worse insulated than most houses
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- adam2
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Machine mart still sell cheap stoves.
Or secondhand, as suggested above.
For the flue, It might be worth building a brick chimney if you can do this yourself, with basic care it should be safer and more durable than flue pipe in a presumably wooden shed.
Build two brick piers or columns, one each side of the stove, with a brick wall between the two and behind the stove.
Build a brick arch between the two piers, or use a concrete lintel, then build a rectangular brick flue up to, and through the roof.
A more complex way is build a new shed ! not as silly as it sounds, I know someone who has done just that.
Build the end wall of brick or concrete for fire safety and ease of incorporating the flue.
Build the other walls of wood for cheapness and simplicity.
Many old trackside huts along railway lines were built thus.
Or secondhand, as suggested above.
For the flue, It might be worth building a brick chimney if you can do this yourself, with basic care it should be safer and more durable than flue pipe in a presumably wooden shed.
Build two brick piers or columns, one each side of the stove, with a brick wall between the two and behind the stove.
Build a brick arch between the two piers, or use a concrete lintel, then build a rectangular brick flue up to, and through the roof.
A more complex way is build a new shed ! not as silly as it sounds, I know someone who has done just that.
Build the end wall of brick or concrete for fire safety and ease of incorporating the flue.
Build the other walls of wood for cheapness and simplicity.
Many old trackside huts along railway lines were built thus.
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A word of advice/warning about Machine Mart stoves.
Apparently some of them don't/didn't have the right glass fitted. So budget for possible replacement. I work with a guy who spent most of the winter dealing with irate customers. I don't know if it was a bad batch or a specification error.
Apparently it's obvious when you know
Apparently some of them don't/didn't have the right glass fitted. So budget for possible replacement. I work with a guy who spent most of the winter dealing with irate customers. I don't know if it was a bad batch or a specification error.
Apparently it's obvious when you know
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