Smart Meter and load shifting as part of preps
Posted: 23 Aug 2022, 22:13
Due to the impending financial clusterf##k that's hitting/will hit the UK , its seems most likely that I will be better off waiting to purchase a property until late this year or more likely sometime next year.
As this means almost certainly spending another winter in a rented mobile home with an electric boiler and with electricity to be priced through the roof, I needed to get a better handle on my electricity usage. I have 4 of the plug in power meters , so since 1st of July I have been keeping daily records of various devices and recording the meter readings at midnight, unfortunately my main electricity meter only recorded to the nearest KWH, which combined will it not being possible to measure the oven, boiler, integrated fridge/freezer or washing machine made getting a true picture of what was using what virtually impossible (when reading the meter you never knew if it had just moved to the next digit or was just about to).
I rescued my old owl wireless clamp meter/display from storage , but that had died completely , and to be fair it was never the most reliable in the first place.
So I have moved to the dark side and last Friday I had a Smart meter fitted. I was not sure if the home display signal would reach far inside as my meter is at the end of the "drive", but as all the blurb showed it would record to 3 decimal places rather than none I would still be much better off. Fortunately the home display does reach inside, though not to the kitchen. I am currently in the improved data gathering stage and will be (when I get time) comparing different ways of cooking things , eg main fan oven, small top oven and portable table top oven.
The first point is that the display has confirmed my suspicion that the fridge/freezer is never or hardly ever shutting off and despite the fact that it has been warm , my own 120 litre Freezer (in the same room) has only been "on" for approx 50% of the time ( of cause I have the condenser of mine in free air). I was certain this was the case so have been trying to run it down , but its been a bit on the hot side for much cooking!!
The other reason for getting a smart meter is it opens up more tariff options , when I have sufficient data and when we know what the various tariffs will be from October I can hopefully mitigate some of the increase .
One option is a cheaper tariff for 4 hours per day (there are various options, but 21:30 to 01:30 would probably be my best bet) and load shifting as much as possible to that time period. Water Heating, Washing Machine and Tumble Dryer (I have no space for an outside line, and no heating on means clothes can still feel damp after a week inside "drying" in the winter) are easy to shift , and 21:30-01:30 is the most likely time I would use any electric heating, possibly to preserve my butane supply.
To increase my load shifting ability and to mitigate against power cuts I am also in the planning stages of moving 4 T105 batteries from my van , to either just outside or possibly just inside the back door and using a sterling pure sinwave inverter charger via a timer (I have rescued this from storage, just need to get the time to check its still working ok).
IF I owned the place this would be easy , but renting means I cant drill any holes through walls or ceiling or fix anything to walls or the floor, which is a right pain, but I have a cunning plan of moving the tumble dryer and using the vent hole (its at a low level) to either run cables from a box outside or to act as a vent from a box inside (I can make something up with some spare kingspan to block most if not all of the draughts and use the same principle to make a new moveable window vent for the tumble dryer.
The next main issue is that I will have to run trailing flexes , but "fortunately the doors that I would need to get through have sufficient space to pass a 3 core 1.5mm trailing flex underneath them and I only plan to use low loads TV , computer etc on the long runs so the voltage drop should not be an issue. The Kitchen is very close to where the inverter will be put , so I can use short runs to power my freezer and what ever I end up using as a fridge and if needed the table top oven and low wattage kettle.
Hopefully I can resurrect a currently not working 12V Freezer that is in my van, (its fixed in and requires other things being removed to get it out, which needs the van being emptied a bit first , so not a 5 min job). I had already replaced the the old analogue controls with a digital version so that I could set the desired temperature, so if this can be fixed I can run a fridge direct from the batteries.
It's very unlikely to be practical to even temp install solar panels (virtually 360 degrees tall trees + low height winter sun are not a great mix) , but I can make up a cable to run DC power from my van to the moved battery bank (I will still have 4 T105's in the van) and I have a 20 Amp Waeco DC to DC charger that can accept 8-16 volts,so the voltage drop on the longish run from the van should still be ok).
At present a lot of testing needs to be done before I know if it will be viable , including does the neutral earth bonding on the inverter (it should switch from the mains earth when it switches over to batteries) still trigger an RCD ( I will wire it through a small consumer unit with a RCD) via a long cable run and does the inverter switchover from inverter to mains and back in time to not upset a computer (it should do). As I am not a sparky this will all be technically illegal, but should be safe.
Note if anyone has any doubt about what they are doing , then dont "play" with mains voltages as it can be fatal.
As this means almost certainly spending another winter in a rented mobile home with an electric boiler and with electricity to be priced through the roof, I needed to get a better handle on my electricity usage. I have 4 of the plug in power meters , so since 1st of July I have been keeping daily records of various devices and recording the meter readings at midnight, unfortunately my main electricity meter only recorded to the nearest KWH, which combined will it not being possible to measure the oven, boiler, integrated fridge/freezer or washing machine made getting a true picture of what was using what virtually impossible (when reading the meter you never knew if it had just moved to the next digit or was just about to).
I rescued my old owl wireless clamp meter/display from storage , but that had died completely , and to be fair it was never the most reliable in the first place.
So I have moved to the dark side and last Friday I had a Smart meter fitted. I was not sure if the home display signal would reach far inside as my meter is at the end of the "drive", but as all the blurb showed it would record to 3 decimal places rather than none I would still be much better off. Fortunately the home display does reach inside, though not to the kitchen. I am currently in the improved data gathering stage and will be (when I get time) comparing different ways of cooking things , eg main fan oven, small top oven and portable table top oven.
The first point is that the display has confirmed my suspicion that the fridge/freezer is never or hardly ever shutting off and despite the fact that it has been warm , my own 120 litre Freezer (in the same room) has only been "on" for approx 50% of the time ( of cause I have the condenser of mine in free air). I was certain this was the case so have been trying to run it down , but its been a bit on the hot side for much cooking!!
The other reason for getting a smart meter is it opens up more tariff options , when I have sufficient data and when we know what the various tariffs will be from October I can hopefully mitigate some of the increase .
One option is a cheaper tariff for 4 hours per day (there are various options, but 21:30 to 01:30 would probably be my best bet) and load shifting as much as possible to that time period. Water Heating, Washing Machine and Tumble Dryer (I have no space for an outside line, and no heating on means clothes can still feel damp after a week inside "drying" in the winter) are easy to shift , and 21:30-01:30 is the most likely time I would use any electric heating, possibly to preserve my butane supply.
To increase my load shifting ability and to mitigate against power cuts I am also in the planning stages of moving 4 T105 batteries from my van , to either just outside or possibly just inside the back door and using a sterling pure sinwave inverter charger via a timer (I have rescued this from storage, just need to get the time to check its still working ok).
IF I owned the place this would be easy , but renting means I cant drill any holes through walls or ceiling or fix anything to walls or the floor, which is a right pain, but I have a cunning plan of moving the tumble dryer and using the vent hole (its at a low level) to either run cables from a box outside or to act as a vent from a box inside (I can make something up with some spare kingspan to block most if not all of the draughts and use the same principle to make a new moveable window vent for the tumble dryer.
The next main issue is that I will have to run trailing flexes , but "fortunately the doors that I would need to get through have sufficient space to pass a 3 core 1.5mm trailing flex underneath them and I only plan to use low loads TV , computer etc on the long runs so the voltage drop should not be an issue. The Kitchen is very close to where the inverter will be put , so I can use short runs to power my freezer and what ever I end up using as a fridge and if needed the table top oven and low wattage kettle.
Hopefully I can resurrect a currently not working 12V Freezer that is in my van, (its fixed in and requires other things being removed to get it out, which needs the van being emptied a bit first , so not a 5 min job). I had already replaced the the old analogue controls with a digital version so that I could set the desired temperature, so if this can be fixed I can run a fridge direct from the batteries.
It's very unlikely to be practical to even temp install solar panels (virtually 360 degrees tall trees + low height winter sun are not a great mix) , but I can make up a cable to run DC power from my van to the moved battery bank (I will still have 4 T105's in the van) and I have a 20 Amp Waeco DC to DC charger that can accept 8-16 volts,so the voltage drop on the longish run from the van should still be ok).
At present a lot of testing needs to be done before I know if it will be viable , including does the neutral earth bonding on the inverter (it should switch from the mains earth when it switches over to batteries) still trigger an RCD ( I will wire it through a small consumer unit with a RCD) via a long cable run and does the inverter switchover from inverter to mains and back in time to not upset a computer (it should do). As I am not a sparky this will all be technically illegal, but should be safe.
Note if anyone has any doubt about what they are doing , then dont "play" with mains voltages as it can be fatal.