Build a solar pv system to power this little lot??

Is Solar Power going to give the UK the energy it needs for the 21st century?

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poisondwarf
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Post by poisondwarf »

Andy Hunt wrote:Thanks Mike, that's very interesting.

I'm toying with the idea of getting a mobile renewable energy soundsystem which I can install in my Austin Mini.

I could probably fit a 120W PV panel on a roof rack, a big chunky leisure battery in the boot along with a charge controller, a hi-fi stereo amp and a couple of speakers, and a small inverter. Add the laptop with all music on board - bingo! Mobile green disco . . .

Just an idea. Have to wait for some spare funds!!

:D
Now there's a plan! Can I come!

Would you like to borrow my TV so you can show dvd's as well :D :D
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Bandidoz
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Post by Bandidoz »

poisondwarf wrote:I have seen one house, in a small village just outside Kendal, which has the biggest solar electric PV array that I have ever seen. There has to be a minimum of 12 and possibly up to 20 solar panels
I am dying to knock at their door just to find out what it produces.
Try this:

http://www.alternative-energy.co.uk/SOL ... STALL.html
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poisondwarf
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Post by poisondwarf »

Bandidoz wrote:
poisondwarf wrote:I have seen one house, in a small village just outside Kendal, which has the biggest solar electric PV array that I have ever seen. There has to be a minimum of 12 and possibly up to 20 solar panels
I am dying to knock at their door just to find out what it produces.
Try this:

http://www.alternative-energy.co.uk/SOL ... STALL.html
Thanks for that link

Have a look at this as well

http://www.alternative-energy.co.uk/Dai ... tputs.html

Looking at that output table then there are only 2 months, December and January, during which a large array would not produce over 4Kw, on average, per day.

That aint bad at all!
The array that I mentioned I have seen near Kendal must produce well over 4Kw per day

Megga bucks though :?

I wonder how much solar pv panels cost in a country such as Turkey, because I might just go and get some....if only...... :(

Cheers
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mikepepler
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Post by mikepepler »

poisondwarf wrote: Dont forget ....... my plan was initially to power about 750W of equipment for about 5 or 6 hours EVERY night.
Thats a total of, on average, of about 4KW EVERY night.

If I have, lets say 8 x 90Ah batteries, (just as Andy H has) then would they produce nearly 4Kw of power every night?

I have no idea how to do this calculation, maybe some of you can help?
Your usage is measure in kWh, not kW. So, your usage is 0.75*6 (worst case), so that's 4.5 kWh.

To store 4.5kWh, or 4500Wh, in batteries at 12V, you need 4500/12 = 375Ah. But, even assuming you get batteries that are able to cope with a deep discharge, you should only take them down to 80%, or even 50% if you want them to last really well. So lets say 50%, then you need 750Ah of storage. So Andy's set of 8*90Ah will near enough do it.

The next step is to work out how much PV you need to gather the energy. The first thing to remember is that charging and discharging the battery is only about 80% efficient (approx) each way, so lets say 65% efficient. We'll ignore the effect of this on battery capacity, as we've over-specified anyway, but you have to take note for power generation. so we don't need 4.5kWh a day, we need almost 7kWh a day. And we've not allowed for losses in the cabling, inverter, dirty panels, etc. Lets ignore them for now...

In the summer, southern UK might get about 4.5kWh of sunlight per square meter every day. So, (without going into the detail) to get 7 kWh you need PV rated at just over 1.5kWp (kWp = kilowatt-peak).

In the winter, it's another matter, as we might only get 0.5kWh/m2/day of sunlight, and you'd need 14kWp of PV panels.

If you take an annual average of 2.5 kWh/m2/day (at a rough guess), you need 2.8 kWp, which would give you bags of power in the summer, but not as much as you want in the winter.

As a completely random, but reasonable, figure, I've just looked up a 240W panel on ebay for ?700. so if you bought them to get to about 2.8kWp, you'd need to spend about ?8,000. I guess if you were buying from a supplier in bulk you'd get them a bit cheaper though. As you can see, if you wanted to have your 6 hours supply in the winter, you'd need to spend 4 times as much! And there's the cost of the inverter and batteries to add, which would be a good few hundred at least, if not 1 or 2 thousand.

And last of all, all of the above only works if it's sunny every day. If you want capacity to last through a cloudy day, you need to double the battery capacity, and add a fair bit to the PV amount. And if you want to last for several cloudy days...

I hope that's helpful?

I guess you can see why if saving money is the objective, it makes sense to cut demand first, because solar PV is actually very expensive. Which is why I'm watching films on a laptop using 40W! :wink:

Of course, if you get a grid-connected system, you can apply for a 50% grant on the panels, but then you wouldn't have your battery system. Not sure about the issues of getting a grid system installed and then hacking it around yourself later...?
poisondwarf wrote: Multi-crystalline solar panel....Quite efficient for a given area but doesn't perform well on a gloomy day.

Amorphous solar panel.....Performs better than Multi- crystalline panels and MUCH better than the aforesaid panels on a cloudy day.

Mono crystalline solar panel.......Supposed to be better than any other type of solar panel. Performs well for a given area and also performs quite well on a dull day
Finally, I'll clarify this.

- Mono-crystalline are most efficient, followed by multi-crystalline, followed by amorphous (or thin-film, as they're more commonly known).

- However, efficiency is in power per unit area. If you're concerned about power per unit cost, then thin film panels are better.

- Crystalline panels work best with direct sunlight, but still generate power in ambient light. Thin film panels are very good with ambient light, though of course direct sunlight is better still.

- There is some evidence that crystalline panels will last longer than thin film, but I don't know how true this is.
Last edited by mikepepler on 26 Apr 2007, 10:46, edited 1 time in total.
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isenhand
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Post by isenhand »

Mike,

You might like this:

http://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvgis/

They have an interactive map that gives stats on solar radiation.


:)
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Erik
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Post by Erik »

mikepepler wrote:I hope that's helpful?
One of the most helpful posts I've seen in a long time I'd say!
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Andy Hunt
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Post by Andy Hunt »

poisondwarf wrote: On another note, I have suddenly started looking at roofs. Do any of you exhibit this strange behaviour?
:lol: Yes this is sooo true!!!!

:D
Andy Hunt
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Eternal Sunshine wrote: I wouldn't want to worry you with the truth. :roll:
Tracy P
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Post by Tracy P »

hmm, and for the rest of us, Mike, I have no idea what you are talking about! :lol:
But it looks impressive!!
poisondwarf
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Post by poisondwarf »

Hi all,

Thanks Mike,

That was a very good post and yes, I did follow just about all of it.

Here is a nice little article that I have just found

http://www.earthtoys.com/emagazine.php? ... e=adisolar

I was not aware that you could get a grant of 50% if you decided to tie a solar array into the grid.
I don't intend to go down that route anyway but it is still an interesting fact.

I also did not know that exact figures that you could let deep cycle discharge down to. (80% or even 50% if they are to last a long time)

I am assuming that the charge controller looks after all of this business and that you can set it, to let the battery bank go down to whatever figure you choose.

If I remember rightly Andy H has already said that his system cost about ?3000. His system is just a bit smaller though.

Again, I am wondering if solar panels can be purchased elsewhere at a far lesser cost than we can buy them over here.

Cheers
Last edited by poisondwarf on 26 Apr 2007, 20:30, edited 1 time in total.
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Andy Hunt
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Post by Andy Hunt »

To be honest I've pretty much made up my mind to go for one of those 240W panels on ebay to supplement my 330W.

The 330W just doesn't seem enough really. I'm hoping that nearer 600W will be a bit more like it, which is still only a third of the 1.5kW you are looking at for your own system, Poisondwarf.

I wish I had some kind of way of checking to make sure my two 165W panels are working properly. Does anyone know what the best way to do this would be? Would a standard voltmeter across the connectors give me an idea?
Andy Hunt
http://greencottage.burysolarclub.net
Eternal Sunshine wrote: I wouldn't want to worry you with the truth. :roll:
poisondwarf
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Post by poisondwarf »

Andy Hunt wrote:To be honest I've pretty much made up my mind to go for one of those 240W panels on ebay to supplement my 330W.

The 330W just doesn't seem enough really. I'm hoping that nearer 600W will be a bit more like it, which is still only a third of the 1.5kW you are looking at for your own system, Poisondwarf.

I wish I had some kind of way of checking to make sure my two 165W panels are working properly. Does anyone know what the best way to do this would be? Would a standard voltmeter across the connectors give me an idea?
Don't remind me, I m starting to feel quite ill :wink: As I have said I will start small and work up.

Sorry I can't help you regarding the testing of your panels but I will have a look around the internet to see if I can find anything for you. I suppose that you have already done that though.

Just a thought....have you seen that new 50" lcd tv in Aldi today...Bargain!

Aldi....I wonder if they will start to sell solar electric panels....Now there's a thought worth pondering on

Cheers
poisondwarf
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Post by poisondwarf »

Andy,

Have a look at this, I think that it may help you

To test a used solar panel, set your voltmeter to DC volts, and measure across the + and - terminals of the panel. This is called the "open-circuit voltage." A 12 volt panel should show about 21 volts in full sun. Panels designed to be connected in sets of 4 (4 panels in series) will show 4 to 5 volts. If your meter can measure DC amperes, set it for this (on a high enough range so your meter won't go up in smoke) and connect it between the + and - terminals in full sun. This measurement is called the short circuit current, and is how much current you can expect from the panels. For a 12 volt panel, multiply your current by 17 volts to get watts. (17 volts is the rated voltage of most 12 volt panels

Here is a link to the whole article

http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_solar_used.html

Check this out as well

http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/surv/panplus.htm

HTH

Cheers
Last edited by poisondwarf on 26 Apr 2007, 20:37, edited 1 time in total.
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Andy Hunt
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Post by Andy Hunt »

We have a laptop with a TV card for our telly, which consumes next to nothing, so we're doing OK there.

However we also have a projector hanging from the ceiling, and a pull-down screen above the fireplace, so when we want the home cinema we can have that too, with the sound coming through the hi-fi. It's all connected up to the laptop. But most of the time we just use the laptop. So we have the best of both worlds! And if I close up the laptop and put the big screen away, our living room is completely empty of screens - ace!

Can't make up my mind about the extra PV panel . . . I'm going to try a few more energy-saving measures first I think before I get one. I currently leave my laptop, network hub and cable modem on all day as I run a web radio station . . . it's only for fun and not many people listen to it, so I might discontinue it and see what happens. That on its own probably eats up 1kWh per day.
Andy Hunt
http://greencottage.burysolarclub.net
Eternal Sunshine wrote: I wouldn't want to worry you with the truth. :roll:
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Andy Hunt
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Post by Andy Hunt »

poisondwarf wrote:Andy,

Have a look at this, I think that it may help you

To test a used solar panel, set your voltmeter to DC volts, and measure across the + and - terminals of the panel. This is called the "open-circuit voltage." A 12 volt panel should show about 21 volts in full sun. Panels designed to be connected in sets of 4 (4 panels in series) will show 4 to 5 volts. If your meter can measure DC amperes, set it for this (on a high enough range so your meter won't go up in smoke) and connect it between the + and - terminals in full sun. This measurement is called the short circuit current, and is how much current you can expect from the panels. For a 12 volt panel, multiply your current by 17 volts to get watts. (17 volts is the rated voltage of most 12 volt panels

Here is a link to the whole article

http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_solar_used.html

Cheers
Thanks mate! My panels are 24V so the voltage should be more like >40V in full sun I suppose.

Have to get the ladders out and try not to electrocute myself. :wink:
Andy Hunt
http://greencottage.burysolarclub.net
Eternal Sunshine wrote: I wouldn't want to worry you with the truth. :roll:
poisondwarf
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Post by poisondwarf »

Hi Andy,

Actually I would love a projector more than anything. In fact when my plasma goes bang then it's a projector for me. What is the power consumption of a projector. I am aware that they use a special, very expensive bulb.

Here is another article about testing solar panels

http://www.icpsolar.com/4105/consumer_support.asp

And one more (it's the very last one at the bottom of the page)

http://www.signalgates.com/faq.htm

HTH

Tv time now :D

Cheers
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