PowerSwitch

For anyone who is interested, I've updated the 'press' and 'garden' sections of my home page - which is basically about how to cram as much post-peak design as possible into an ordinary terraced house!

http://greencottage.burysolarclub.net

A few days ago I planted some lettuce seeds in pots on my South-facing windowsill, and some tomato seeds in a propagator out the back, just to see what happened.

Guess what - they're all coming up. In January!

I heard that in some park in Oldham somewhere they've had to mow the grass for the first time ever in January. What's going on?!?!!

I'm sure you've already mentionned it, but what make is your solar panel and what criteria did you use to choose it. We're hoping to install solar water heating at some point and I'm doing a bit of research.
Thanks, Rachel

Andy Hunt wrote:
Guess what - they're all coming up. In January!

Don't worry. They'll realise their mistake soon enough. Cold weather is on the way. Last night was the coldest in central London for the last 9 years according to the Beeb. Wouldn't surprise me if we see a bit of snow in the next few days. The sky outside my window has got that look about it...

I'm sure you've already mentionned it, but what make is your solar panel and what criteria did you use to choose it. We're hoping to install solar water heating at some point and I'm doing a bit of research.
Thanks, Rachel

It's a Zen Eaga system:

www.zeneagasolar.com

It's one of the cheaper ones around, it's a flat plate collector which means it is very rugged and not prone to kids with ball bearings etc.

It uses the 'drain-back' system, which means no toxic antifreeze in the pipes, and prevents the panel freezing up in winter.

We use a wood stove for our hot water in the colder months, so in the summer the solar system gives us our hot water for free, when we're not using the stove. Even on the cloudiest days, the water is hot enough for a shower. There are two of us and the large cylinder which comes with the solar easily gives us enough hot water.

Good luck with your research!

andy - just like to say thanks for the updates on your PO proofing; its great stuff to follow and you've given me a few good ideas

andy - just like to say thanks for the updates on your PO proofing; its great stuff to follow and you've given me a few good ideas

It's my pleasure!

One thing though - even my little terraced house with its small plot out the back and small front garden is enough to keep me really busy!

I can see people with suburban houses having lots of work to do - especially on the garden. But the size of some suburban gardens, you could get huge quantities of food out of them!

You could even keep your front lawn for the children, and plant it with an orchard, with the lawn surviving under the trees. The back garden could be the vegetable plot, greehouse etc. There's so much that is possible!

Heating and lighting bigger houses could be a problem, though. I'm glad I only have a small one - it has a gable end wall though (no wall cavity, house is circa 1900), which is a bit cold. Looking at some external thermal render for that wall, which apparently is the thermal equivalent of cavity wall insulation:-

http://www.walltransform.co.uk/

Hum, don't see any stated U-values

Have a look at Sto-Render

http://www.sto.co.uk/products/ex_coat1.htm

This is a through-colour render applied over ridgid insulation (to any thickness required)

Alternatively line the inner walls with super 9 insulation and plasterboard.

tri-iso super 9 specifications


BENEFITS
seals roof against wind and damp,
whilst retaining ventilation.
Retains more warmth in winter.
Prevents lofts overheating in summer.
saves valuable living space.
Beams and rafters may be left exposed.

APPLICATION
Characteristics
Uncompressed thickness;
25mm. Thickness according NF G07-150: 20mm
Equivalent to 200mm of traditional thick insulation.

Applications
Over/Under rafter.
Loft conversions.
Unconverted lofts
Walls

http://www.tri-isosuper9.co.uk/home.htm.

If you are thinking of doing this be aware of the 'dew point', condensation can build up inside the walls causing problems.

Andy, the copy of this book that I decided to order arrived today - it has 5 pages of discussion about insulating solid walls. Give us a shout if you want to know more.

Nice one, guys . . . I have heard contradictory things about the Tri-Iso stuff, I must admit. Apparently it conducts electricity, which could be a problem if you have a short circuit in your loft!

That looks like a good book. I'm compiling a list of books to get hold of at the minute, I'll put that one on it!

I have heard contradictory things about the Tri-Iso stuff, I must admit. Apparently it conducts electricity, which could be a problem if you have a short circuit in your loft!

True, It seems to have problems with current regulations. However I have heard good reports about by people who have used it, I would consider it for lineing your wall, not for your loft.

As for short circuits, if you have a new fuse box with trip switches you should have no problems.

Joe wrote:Andy, the copy of this book that I decided to order arrived today - it has 5 pages of discussion about insulating solid walls. Give us a shout if you want to know more.

This guy reckons that the overall best bet is to fix insulation board to the external face and finishing with a waterproof render. Apparently to have a significant impact you want to go at least 100mm thick, which might have implications for some external features like guttering if you're eaves don't overhang enough.

Also you'll need to avoid 'cold bridges' (resulting from a discontinuity of the insulation leading to a section of wall being colder than its surroundings) that will attract condensation - this could mean modifying or replacing windows & doors. Next thing to worry about is whether any downpipes will foul the insulation and either need to be moved, or have thinner insulation added behind them (again risking cold bridges).

Finally you need to be careful that the insulation backing doesn't bypass your damp proof course by allowing water to rise by capilliary action.

He gives a guide of U values for various insulation thicknesses applied to a 140mm solid wall:
90mm insulation yields 0.35 W/m2K,
100mm gives 0.3 W/m2K
120mm gives 0.27 W/m2K

It's probably worth checking out the Insulated Render and Cladding Association before doing anything: http://www.inca-ltd.org.uk/ - they have a register of members including designers, installers, manufacturers etc.