I find that point a bit odd considering how many times it has been pointed out to me that you Brits. don't consider a house old before it's second century. Over that span of time children will come and grow and the use of the house will change decade to decade. Who would want a house that needs to be refitted when JR. goes off to college?kenneal - lagger wrote:As far as I'm concerned...
.... If the house is to be occupied during the day, say if you have young children or work from home, I would say go for a heavyweight construction rather lightweight so that the sun's heat, and any extra heat sources, can be stored in the structure. .
Optimum size for new home
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I would build all houses in heavyweight construction unless the materials were at hand to build otherwise but some people have been sold the idea of timber frame as more sustainable and you have to give them a reason to build otherwise.vtsnowedin wrote:I find that point a bit odd considering how many times it has been pointed out to me that you Brits. don't consider a house old before it's second century. Over that span of time children will come and grow and the use of the house will change decade to decade. Who would want a house that needs to be refitted when JR. goes off to college?kenneal - lagger wrote:As far as I'm concerned...
.... If the house is to be occupied during the day, say if you have young children or work from home, I would say go for a heavyweight construction rather lightweight so that the sun's heat, and any extra heat sources, can be stored in the structure. .
John, get in touch with the company. They are very helpful.
Action is the antidote to despair - Joan Baez
- RenewableCandy
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Good point, and one we are wrestling with here at Chateau Renewable even as you squeak. I hate the thought of having to move away from the 8 fruit trees we have nurtured from sticks and leaving them in the hands of some builder-type (they are depressingly common, in both senses of the word) who'll rip them out. It happened with our old house.vtsnowedin wrote: Brits. don't consider a house old before its second century. Over that span of time children will come and grow and the use of the house will change decade to decade. Who would want a house that needs to be refitted when JR. goes off to college?
I once stayed in a guest-house in Boston (Mass not Lincs) that was identical in type to the sturdy Glaswegian "tenament" we used to live in, and which was considered an antique so worthy of public perusal that they had put their house on a special list/"trail" for enthusiasts. And in the belting summer heat it stayed cool without air-con.
- RenewableCandy
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Mine is mid 19th century, as far as I can make out, and is actually two houses on the planning system. Previous owners have half heartedly tried converting it into one without telling anyone, which is why there is one staircase, and you have to go outside from the bigger part of the house and in another door, to get upstairs .
If the Eco-Hamlet I want to create doesn't fully happen, I can at least live in the smaller house and let the bigger one, probably to several lodgers as an HMO.
Any house I buy in future will be viewed for its potential to be divided, formally or informally, if it's not already a tiny house.
If the Eco-Hamlet I want to create doesn't fully happen, I can at least live in the smaller house and let the bigger one, probably to several lodgers as an HMO.
Any house I buy in future will be viewed for its potential to be divided, formally or informally, if it's not already a tiny house.
- adam2
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I have now confirmed that grid electricity is not available, without unreasonable cost.
If the existing foundations are re-used, then the main roof wont be ideal for PV.
Several KW of PV could be fitted on a proposed outbuilding, combined garage, log store, and stable.
A couple of small wind turbines are proposed, these to be mounted on the outbuilding which would be of special construction, so as to also take the extra wind loading.
Demolition of the existing will start any day with bricks, blocks and roof tiles being saved for re use, and timber saved for fire wood.
Not much else worth saving.
If the existing foundations are re-used, then the main roof wont be ideal for PV.
Several KW of PV could be fitted on a proposed outbuilding, combined garage, log store, and stable.
A couple of small wind turbines are proposed, these to be mounted on the outbuilding which would be of special construction, so as to also take the extra wind loading.
Demolition of the existing will start any day with bricks, blocks and roof tiles being saved for re use, and timber saved for fire wood.
Not much else worth saving.
"Installers and owners of emergency diesels must assume that they will have to run for a week or more"
- biffvernon
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What angle should the solar panels be at?
Fixed ones are usually placed at an angle facing south, presumably calculated to maximise total annual electricity production. It's all compromise of course, with a fixed panel.
In an off grid installation, maximum annual production might not be the top benefit. Getting some electricity for the maximum hours in the day might be more useful than maximising peak production at midday, which might deliver an unusable surplus.
Therefore, it might be best to orient panels flat rather than tilted, so that some sun falls on the panel from dawn to dusk. With a tilted panel you lose out before 6am and after 6pm in summer.
Am I right?
Fixed ones are usually placed at an angle facing south, presumably calculated to maximise total annual electricity production. It's all compromise of course, with a fixed panel.
In an off grid installation, maximum annual production might not be the top benefit. Getting some electricity for the maximum hours in the day might be more useful than maximising peak production at midday, which might deliver an unusable surplus.
Therefore, it might be best to orient panels flat rather than tilted, so that some sun falls on the panel from dawn to dusk. With a tilted panel you lose out before 6am and after 6pm in summer.
Am I right?
- adam2
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The outbuilding roof will face due south but the angle of elevation is yet to be decided.
For off grid use one usually wants the maximum WINTER production when output is limited by the weather and lighting demand is greatest.
This often means near vertical mounting, a south facing wall sometimes being better than a roof.
For grid tie use the greatest anuall production is wanted, often at about 30 to 45 degrees from horizontal.
In this case the exact angle will depend on convienience of construction. The PV modules will not be mounted ON the roof, but will form the roof covering. That is the underside of the modules will be exposed from within. This reduces heat buildup and saves on other roofing materials.
For off grid use one usually wants the maximum WINTER production when output is limited by the weather and lighting demand is greatest.
This often means near vertical mounting, a south facing wall sometimes being better than a roof.
For grid tie use the greatest anuall production is wanted, often at about 30 to 45 degrees from horizontal.
In this case the exact angle will depend on convienience of construction. The PV modules will not be mounted ON the roof, but will form the roof covering. That is the underside of the modules will be exposed from within. This reduces heat buildup and saves on other roofing materials.
"Installers and owners of emergency diesels must assume that they will have to run for a week or more"
Interesting post. Keep the details coming.
I'm building two triangular racks for my four-panel off-grid solar PV system. The racks will rest on flagstones at ground level against the wall of the house. The angles are 45 degrees, but I aim to use bricks to adjust the angle of the racks to adjust for Summer and Winter differences in the sun's angle. The racks are boxed in with plywood, with one rack holding the charge controller, fuse box, etc. and the other containing the leisure batteries.
I'm thinking of adding a small wind turbine with a separate charge controller, to keep the batteries going overnight, so the fridge, etc. can run. Any recommendations? I've seen a lot of Chinese stuff online that looks of poor quality...
I'm building two triangular racks for my four-panel off-grid solar PV system. The racks will rest on flagstones at ground level against the wall of the house. The angles are 45 degrees, but I aim to use bricks to adjust the angle of the racks to adjust for Summer and Winter differences in the sun's angle. The racks are boxed in with plywood, with one rack holding the charge controller, fuse box, etc. and the other containing the leisure batteries.
I'm thinking of adding a small wind turbine with a separate charge controller, to keep the batteries going overnight, so the fridge, etc. can run. Any recommendations? I've seen a lot of Chinese stuff online that looks of poor quality...
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It is early days yet, but the proposal is to build a relatively long and narrow outbuilding divided into sections for different purposes.
The long axis of this will be East/West, such that one side of the roof faces due South and the other side faces North.
The south facing side of the roof will consist of a continous row of PV modules with the greater dimension of the module being up/down the roof slope and the shorter dimension being along the roof.
To allow for expansion or very slight structural movement there will be a gap of about 3mm between modules, this being filled with mastic.
Since the distance from the ridge of the roof to the gutter will be greater than the length of the PV modules, the rest of the South elevation of the roof will have to be covered with something else, probably slates.
The north side of the roof will be covered in clear corrugated polycarbonate so as to admit ample daylight but minimise excessive heat or glare.
No windows to any outbuilding in the interests of security, and flexible use of the interior space.
The long axis of this will be East/West, such that one side of the roof faces due South and the other side faces North.
The south facing side of the roof will consist of a continous row of PV modules with the greater dimension of the module being up/down the roof slope and the shorter dimension being along the roof.
To allow for expansion or very slight structural movement there will be a gap of about 3mm between modules, this being filled with mastic.
Since the distance from the ridge of the roof to the gutter will be greater than the length of the PV modules, the rest of the South elevation of the roof will have to be covered with something else, probably slates.
The north side of the roof will be covered in clear corrugated polycarbonate so as to admit ample daylight but minimise excessive heat or glare.
No windows to any outbuilding in the interests of security, and flexible use of the interior space.
"Installers and owners of emergency diesels must assume that they will have to run for a week or more"
- adam2
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Demolition of existing badly damaged houses now complete, with the debris sorted into piles to reduce waste.
1) mainly bricks, blocks and roof tiles, and a few concrete lintels for re use on site.
2) wood, not for re use for building but all kept for fire wood.
3) odds and ends that might come in handy
4) landfill, reluctantly.
The outbuilding is nearly finished and it is proposed to camp in this in the short term whilst the house is being built.
A single PV module has been fitted to supply basic lighting pending the full installation.
1) mainly bricks, blocks and roof tiles, and a few concrete lintels for re use on site.
2) wood, not for re use for building but all kept for fire wood.
3) odds and ends that might come in handy
4) landfill, reluctantly.
The outbuilding is nearly finished and it is proposed to camp in this in the short term whilst the house is being built.
A single PV module has been fitted to supply basic lighting pending the full installation.
"Installers and owners of emergency diesels must assume that they will have to run for a week or more"
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