Wood splitting wedges

woodpecker · Post by **woodpecker** » 28 Dec 2010, 10:46

I have seen these mentioned a few times, and now need to buy one (and some goggles, obviously).

What's the best type? The oblong ones are cheaper, but reviews seem better for the cone shaped ones? Fiskars model seems highly rated but expensive. Does the 'best type' depend on what you're splitting? Is size important? Do you need more than one?

PaulS · Post by **PaulS** » 28 Dec 2010, 10:52

We cut and prepare some 6m3 of our own wood each year.
My advice is to forget wedges of any kind (I have a small collection and they are all pretty useless.

I use an electric powered hydraulic log splitter, which works beautifully.
See http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-tonne-Log-Split ... 3f0505f78d

or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Manual-Log-Splitt ... 255d94b490 for a cheaper manual splitter

eBay is full of them.

woodpecker · Post by **woodpecker** » 28 Dec 2010, 11:07

Hmm, I'm generally only looking to further split some logs already split (say, in half), and most of mine are 24-28cm (so longer than the manual splitter you indicate can deal with).... I don't think an electric splitter (which can cope with that length) would be a wise use of funds, given that I'm not actually dealing with that much wood.

tattercoats · Post by **tattercoats** » 28 Dec 2010, 17:06

PaulS, I must respectfully disagree... or maybe I'm just strange, but we love our old oblong iron wedges, and have fun showing visitors how to split logs with them.

We use a set of three, slightly differing lengths and thicknesses. Fun for all the family...

Post by **mikepepler** » 28 Dec 2010, 17:31

Why not just use a maul? We use several splitting tools for various jobs:

splitting logs in 2m lengths so they can season while stacked:
- maul in the end to start a split
- two large steel wedges and sledgehammer to take the split along to the end.

splitting short logs:
- maul, or
- a device that has a wedge on the end of a shaft, and a big weight that slide on the shaft - you position the wedge on the log, then slide the weight up and bang it down. Good for when kids want to have a go, as it's safer for them than a maul, and easier to aim.

splitting logs for kindling:
- a small axe/hatchet, or
- a froe and wooden mallet, with an old bike inner tube to hold the log together while putting several splits in.

I've seen those "log bomb" wedges that people use, but never tried one. Because we split our logs in 2m lengths and cross--cut later, we've not much use for them.

Overall, the maul is the most satisfying too to use though.

woodburner · Post by **woodburner** » 28 Dec 2010, 22:35

I agree with Mike. I have a http://shop.visatools.co.uk/7lb-black-f ... -121-p.asp and http://shop.visatools.co.uk/8lb-canadia ... -122-p.asp for the heavy stuff from the charcoal making days. I also have a http://shop.visatools.co.uk/3lb-mini-lo ... -236-p.asp for most of the splitting stove thickness rings, and for making kindling. Hand axes are dangerous for kindling, as I discovered.

eatyourveg · Post by **eatyourveg** » 28 Dec 2010, 23:25

I have an hydraulic splitter which works just fine. I also use a maul. The maul generally gets used because it is faster, although harder work. This I don't mind as I see the exercise as a good way of staying in shape.

For kindling though I use the ultimate lazy method, a circular bench saw with which I cut up lengths of knackered pallets.

I also have a few wedge splitters and an odd shaped thing called a 'log grenade', they all work, but the maul is faster, and you get a God like physique thrown in (Buddha in my case).

snow hope · Post by **snow hope** » 29 Dec 2010, 00:12

Use a Maul and a Bow saw. Keep fit and warm, whilst you make your wood for the fire.

Post by **kenneal - lagger** » 29 Dec 2010, 01:18

I've got a 7lb splitting maul which is used for most jobs. I very occasionally use steel wedges to help a very large round to split but usually start with the maul.

If you're worried about using a maul, practise makes perfect. Just like golf, it's all about the swing. Keep your swing the same every time and move yourself into position. Being right handed, I line my right foot up with where I want to chop, keep my eye on the spot and swing.

If you're starting on an uncut round, always look for a shake or imperfection in the wood and start on that. A few whacks along the line of the shake and it will split. If it is taking ages turn the round over and try the other side. Chop bits off radially and then chop them across afterwards. Some types of wood will allow bits to be hacked off circumferentially but try radially first.

Best of luck.

woodburner · Post by **woodburner** » 29 Dec 2010, 20:02

kenneal wrote: I line my right foot up with where I want to chop,

I chop one side or the other.Chopping in line with my foot is not a calming experience when you miss the block.

Post by **mikepepler** » 30 Dec 2010, 08:49

woodburner wrote:
kenneal wrote: I line my right foot up with where I want to chop,
I chop one side or the other.Chopping in line with my foot is not a calming experience when you miss the block.

Steel toecaps!

re · Post by re » 30 Dec 2010, 09:14

I think it depends on the wood really. Last year I split a load of apple wood with one of these. If you've already got a sledgehammer then it's cheaper and smaller than buying a maul.

Post by **kenneal - lagger** » 30 Dec 2010, 14:07

mikepepler wrote:
woodburner wrote:
kenneal wrote: I line my right foot up with where I want to chop,
I chop one side or the other.Chopping in line with my foot is not a calming experience when you miss the block.
Steel toecaps!

Of course!

woodburner · Post by **woodburner** » 30 Dec 2010, 15:02

mikepepler wrote:
woodburner wrote:
kenneal wrote: I line my right foot up with where I want to chop,
I chop one side or the other.Chopping in line with my foot is not a calming experience when you miss the block.
Steel toecaps!

Unfortunately they don't protect insteps or shins. Best work using a method which isn't improved by PPE.

Post by **kenneal - lagger** » 30 Dec 2010, 19:32

woodburner wrote:
mikepepler wrote:
woodburner wrote: I chop one side or the other.Chopping in line with my foot is not a calming experience when you miss the block.
Steel toecaps!
Unfortunately they don't protect insteps or shins. Best work using a method which isn't improved by PPE.

I've never had a problem with whacking my shins. I line my foot up with my aiming point because that's the way my axe swing works. If I put my foot elsewhere I miss what I'm aiming at. Everybody should find their own comfortable swing and stick to it.