Chainsaw advice
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- RenewableCandy
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2-handled bowsaws now there's a thing.
Shortly bafore marrying Marvellous OH, we were invited to a wedding in Germany. Can't comment on the service 'cause mein Deutschkenntnisse ist kaput but as soon as they stepped out the building the new Pair had their way blocked by a saw-horse with a large log lain across it. They were then handed a 2-handled saw and were cheered on to get on with it, and more so when they finished. I found this (turned out it's a popular custom) very moving: the first thing they had to do as married couple was something (decent ) you can't do alone. We invited them to our wedding. Guess what happened (clue: no chainsaws allowed)
Shortly bafore marrying Marvellous OH, we were invited to a wedding in Germany. Can't comment on the service 'cause mein Deutschkenntnisse ist kaput but as soon as they stepped out the building the new Pair had their way blocked by a saw-horse with a large log lain across it. They were then handed a 2-handled saw and were cheered on to get on with it, and more so when they finished. I found this (turned out it's a popular custom) very moving: the first thing they had to do as married couple was something (decent ) you can't do alone. We invited them to our wedding. Guess what happened (clue: no chainsaws allowed)
So, Mike is sneakily going to try to get me to do chainsaw training?
hmmm
I did a basket weaving course for 2 days and it was fab. Really hard work
About Bow saws though - you need to communicate with the person you are sawing with - Mike (love him!) got in trouble for pulling too hard on the saw and my knuckes tried to knock the tree down.
Maybe you should saw with your partner BEFORE you get married to make sure you are compatible?
hmmm
I did a basket weaving course for 2 days and it was fab. Really hard work
About Bow saws though - you need to communicate with the person you are sawing with - Mike (love him!) got in trouble for pulling too hard on the saw and my knuckes tried to knock the tree down.
Maybe you should saw with your partner BEFORE you get married to make sure you are compatible?
I think that we have to accept that there still are some pockets of gender-bent interests around. Chainsaws is probably a very male interest. Please, allow me to illustrate:
My SO owns a tiny farm with some five hectares of land and have a 9 kW wood stove in the house as main heat source. When her ex left he took the chainsaw (the bastard) to his flat in town. The property need a chainsaw (and an operator) and she asked me for help buying one (buying a chainsaw that is).
There was a campaign for a muscular Stihl MS390 and I arranged over phone with a shop to reserve one of them and sent her to pick it up.
The shop was located in a rural district and it was probably the first time in many years a woman entered that shop. The blokes behind the counter had a great time of conversation with the other blokes leaning against the counter. After some fifteen minutes the conversation ended and the other blokes left (without buying anything) and it was her turn. She promptly called up the reserved chainsaw and asked to pay for it, and the bloke behind the counter completely lost it.
- B.. b.. but don't you want to touch and feel it?
- No. I just want to buy it.
- B.. b.. but EVERYONE want to touch and feel!
- Not me. Just hand it over!
I bet that they had never reflected over the fact that men want to touch and feel chainsaws before buying until someone REFUSED to touch and feel. I guess they still talk about the event in that rural shop.
When she brought the the saw home, her two sons (15 and 19 at the time) IMMEDIATELY assembled the sword and chain by pure intuition, and started with the "touch-and-feel" thing and "air-sawing" and all that.
Another male niche is maybe trebuchets? My next project?
My SO owns a tiny farm with some five hectares of land and have a 9 kW wood stove in the house as main heat source. When her ex left he took the chainsaw (the bastard) to his flat in town. The property need a chainsaw (and an operator) and she asked me for help buying one (buying a chainsaw that is).
There was a campaign for a muscular Stihl MS390 and I arranged over phone with a shop to reserve one of them and sent her to pick it up.
The shop was located in a rural district and it was probably the first time in many years a woman entered that shop. The blokes behind the counter had a great time of conversation with the other blokes leaning against the counter. After some fifteen minutes the conversation ended and the other blokes left (without buying anything) and it was her turn. She promptly called up the reserved chainsaw and asked to pay for it, and the bloke behind the counter completely lost it.
- B.. b.. but don't you want to touch and feel it?
- No. I just want to buy it.
- B.. b.. but EVERYONE want to touch and feel!
- Not me. Just hand it over!
I bet that they had never reflected over the fact that men want to touch and feel chainsaws before buying until someone REFUSED to touch and feel. I guess they still talk about the event in that rural shop.
When she brought the the saw home, her two sons (15 and 19 at the time) IMMEDIATELY assembled the sword and chain by pure intuition, and started with the "touch-and-feel" thing and "air-sawing" and all that.
Another male niche is maybe trebuchets? My next project?
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- RenewableCandy
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Trebuchets?? Do you know a place that sells them then??? Funny my son's already got a working model trebuchet...
Actually I think I'd like to at least pick up a chainsaw before handing over my hard-earned: just to check it's physically possible for me to do!!
Similarly, Marvellous OH and I had in fact indulged in a little pre-marital sawing but that's another story
Actually I think I'd like to at least pick up a chainsaw before handing over my hard-earned: just to check it's physically possible for me to do!!
Similarly, Marvellous OH and I had in fact indulged in a little pre-marital sawing but that's another story
- emordnilap
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- RenewableCandy
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- mikepepler
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Coming back to an old topic... my chainsaw addiction has not abated - I've just been on the CS32 medium tree felling course ('medium' is 15-30" diameter). Very interesting to learn about how to deal with bigger trees - but will still require some thought to adapt it for felling without chainsaws in future...
Videos here:
http://peplers.blogspot.com/2011/11/cs3 ... insaw.html
and here:
http://peplers.blogspot.com/2011/11/lot ... -cs32.html
Videos here:
http://peplers.blogspot.com/2011/11/cs3 ... insaw.html
and here:
http://peplers.blogspot.com/2011/11/lot ... -cs32.html
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You should try it sometime with a properly sized saw and bar combination. For trees that size a 20" bar makes short work of it.mikepepler wrote:Coming back to an old topic... my chainsaw addiction has not abated - I've just been on the CS32 medium tree felling course ('medium' is 15-30" diameter). Very interesting to learn about how to deal with bigger trees - but will still require some thought to adapt it for felling without chainsaws in future...
Videos here:
http://peplers.blogspot.com/2011/11/cs3 ... insaw.html
and here:
http://peplers.blogspot.com/2011/11/lot ... -cs32.html
While watching your hung up video my wife and daughter came in and watched over my shoulder. Their comment was that in the time you cut one tree I would have felled two bucked one up and had half of it split. Flattery will get them nice Christmas presents.
- biffvernon
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- mikepepler
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I agree - but for the course (and upcoming exam), you are limited to a maximum bar length of 15". This is to ensure you really know how to fell trees that are wider than your bar is long. Of course you can then use a longer bar later, but at least you're always prepared for when you find a tree that's larger.vtsnowedin wrote:You should try it sometime with a properly sized saw and bar combination. For trees that size a 20" bar makes short work of it.
While watching your hung up video my wife and daughter came in and watched over my shoulder. Their comment was that in the time you cut one tree I would have felled two bucked one up and had half of it split. Flattery will get them nice Christmas presents.
They're always slow to fell during the course, as you spend lots of time stopping to explain to the class what your plan is, and discuss what's going on. Also that hung up one was only my second tree on the course
Plus the fact that if you take fallen wood from footpaths/verges, doing that with a chainsaw is going to get you noticedbiffvernon wrote:What's the hurry? If you use a bow saw by hand you can still hear the birds sing.
Personally, I hate chainsaws -- I've been taught to use them, but I find the process is far too easy and unrewarding. When splitting by hand you get to know the idiosyncrasies of the tree, its knots and twists, that you miss when using a chainsaw. Also, as my Granddad said, wood should warm you three times -- once when you cut it, once when you split it, and once when you burn it.
I've had my own bow saw and axe since I was about 12 -- one of the great formative experiences of my youth was Dutch elm disease, and the many hours of pocket-money-supplementing cutting and splitting that it gave me. Having people around me who, having a long experience of old fashioned hand tools, knew what they were doing was also immensely educational.
Having a bow saw is good, but if you can learn to keep the blade sharp it's even better. Modern blades are really hard (I've found the cheap Chinese ones so hard that they snap!); even so, after 20 or 30 hours of use a little TLC with a file makes them far easier to use. Heat treated blades (they usually have a sort of black staining of the metal near the tip of the tooth) also respond to a little touch up every now and again -- but you have to use a stone/polishing block rather than a file (a file cracks/shatters the tensile metal, making the teeth more likely to break).
Likewise axe maintenance makes a great difference. Some people prefer a splitting mauls, the extra weight making it easier to bust the wood. Personally I prefer a long-shaft blunt felling axe for splitting -- lighter weight, so you can use it four hours without beating yourself up, but if you've got a good action the speed will cleanly cleave the round. For splitting it doesn't need to be sharp, but keeping the blade free of rust and filing the dinks out of the cutting edge makes a big difference.
If you want to actually fell a tree, you need to sharpen the blade like a knife so it can cut the grain of the wood. Those pictures you see of felling contests in North America, where each blow takes out a huge bite, they're using hardened blades that are razor sharp. Of course whilst they're excellent for cutting, sharp axes are not good for splitting.
- mikepepler
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We found chainsaws necessary to produce the volume of wood we need while still having time to do our jobs. Of course, as things change we may have more time on our hands and be able to use axes and bow saws again...
One thing that strikes me though - for large trees, there are a lot of specialised cuts used to bring them down safely, and these can only be done with a chainsaw. I'm guessing in days gone by it was simply more dangerous? Or perhaps ropes and winches were always used, whereas today they're only brought out when essential?
One thing that strikes me though - for large trees, there are a lot of specialised cuts used to bring them down safely, and these can only be done with a chainsaw. I'm guessing in days gone by it was simply more dangerous? Or perhaps ropes and winches were always used, whereas today they're only brought out when essential?
Used a two-person cross-cut saw with my Dad/Granddad; provided there's two of you and it's sharp you can inflict just as much damage as a chainsaw, but it takes a little longer. On the plus side it's a lot more social because you can still talk without shouting whilst you're using it.mikepepler wrote:We found chainsaws necessary to produce the volume of wood we need while still having time to do our jobs.
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All the cuts you can make with a chainsaw can be done by a felling axe or a two man crosscut saw. My back forty was cut off during WW2 before the advent of chainsaws. Virgin white spruce forty feet to the first limbs and two to three feet through at the butt. The notches were cut with an axe and the felling cut done with a crosscut saw. A team of horses would pull down any lodged tree and skid the logs to the landing where it was cut into four foot pulp for a paper mill supplying the war effort.mikepepler wrote:We found chainsaws necessary to produce the volume of wood we need while still having time to do our jobs. Of course, as things change we may have more time on our hands and be able to use axes and bow saws again...
One thing that strikes me though - for large trees, there are a lot of specialised cuts used to bring them down safely, and these can only be done with a chainsaw. I'm guessing in days gone by it was simply more dangerous? Or perhaps ropes and winches were always used, whereas today they're only brought out when essential?
I try to avoid using felling wedges as having a saw kick back and hit the tip of the wedge wasts a chain. Instead I try to let them fall the way they are already leaning and just steer them between the trees they want to lodge in. I sometimes use a triangle or one sided hinge to make the tree twist and roll as it falls to avoided getting lodged.
Always have two clear escape routes in case the tree decides to fall towards your primary path away to safety.
The one time I managed to injure myself I was cutting a good sized maple in knee deep snow that spun around on its hinge and chased me away from the butt. I took the saw with me but in my haste the still spinning chain laid open my knee to the tune of twelve stitches. (No chaps in those days.)