kenneal - lagger wrote:Re Biff's post on Cuba, it is a very difficult country to comment on as it has effectively been politically cleansed as opposed to ethnically cleansed. There is no political opposition, or very little, in Cuba because they have all left for, or been forced out to, the US. There is no repression because it's now not necessary.
I disagree. 'They' haven't all left, there's a tremendous undercurrent of hostility and in many cases desperation, but ordinary people know better than to discuss it. There are still political prisoners, and there are still controls on leaving the country. The government can still make life miserable for you: the government determines whether you get a holiday with your family at a state-run Cuban-only resort (somewhat more run-down than the tourist equivalents), with its own 'spies', as a reward, or wether you are sent to work in a cement factory in the boondocks.
Mostly, the people who seem able to freely discuss the situation in Cuba are those at the very bottom of the pile (nothing to lose?), though I think more people these days feel able to express fleeting remarks that are not supportive of the Castros and the regime.
I had only two long and serious discussions in Cuba. One was with some people we had spent several days with, we were at the top of an isolated tower in the middle of a power blackout. Presumably they felt there was no way that we were being eavesdropped on. (Like in Spain under Franco and like East Germany under the Stasi, I suspect there's still a degree of 'social spying' in Cuba, as well as any perceived threat from technology. Maybe just paranoia, but just because you're paranoid doesn't mean...) The other time was while spending a day horse-riding in the mountains in western Cuba. Again, nobody to overhear.
In Havana, (apart from hotels) we stayed twice with someone who had been a senior Cuban minister back in the early days of the revolution - now retired - and his wife, and they seemed to be just getting by and keeping their heads down. Lots of (1950s) crockery and glassware, not much to put in it - though they have more to put in it when you are there (see below).
Commenting on the origins of the extreme monetary poverty of nearly all Cubans is difficult because of the unknown effects of the US sanctions on the economy. Cubans, in the main are extremely poor by most accepted standards but most will profess to be happy with their lot. Those who work in the tourist industry are richer because of the tips they receive but are probably more discontented than other Cubans because of the wealth that they see in the tourists that they encounter. the vast majority of Cubans are kept separate from tourists so that any discontent is minimised.
Well, the vast majority of tourists keep themselves separate from ordinary Cubans, pretty much by choice. They go to resorts, and island resorts, where no Cubans actually live, such as Varadero. It's easy enough to meet thousands of Cubans under ordinary (non-tourist resort) conditions if you choose to.
Those Cubans who work in the tourist industry, or have any encounters with the outside world, have a serious advantage: not money per se, but being able to obtain convertible currency. If you don't have convertible currency, there's all kinds of things you can't buy in Cuba.
On the other hand, the prices in non-convertible currency for the things you can buy with it are very reasonable: there's a dual-price system, with a huge differential in prices, and in theory as a foreigner you should always be paying in convertible currency at the higher convertible currency prices (though in practice that doesn't always work, especially in rural areas where the person concerned may never have seen convertible currency).
The standard of catering in the country in the main tourist industry is abysmal. Despite having masses of fresh vegetable available, in even a top class tourist hotel you are quite likely to be served up nasty tinned mixed vegetables. The meat is often low quality and badly cooked. If, however, you go to a "casa particular". an unofficial restaurant run in the front room of a private house, you will get very good home cooked food and good service at a reasonable price.
The resorts and hotels are in effect all controlled by the state, which seems more concerned with avoiding health scares (strong chlorine in the salad veg) than with providing interesting food.
There's plenty of good - but basic - food to be had, but it's all home cooking, either at B&Bs or front-room restaurants. But these people work with an advantage that ordinary Cubans dont have: they are receiving convertible currency from you, and so are able to go to certain markets or shops for certain kinds of things. The first thing they do when they get your cash is to go to the shop or the market.
You'll also get good food at B&Bs outside the cities that run small-holdings (and there's a lot of those), as they keep and slaughter their own chickens and pigs and grow their own greens.
If you live in a city and have no land or family with land, and you don't have access to convertible currency, I think the food situation is rather grim.
The food available in the ration stores is miserable, both in terms of quality and availability. I've seen ration stores with just completely empty shelves or with three bags of rice. This rather reminded me of a visit to East Berlin's 'flagship' department store back in the mid-80s.
Travelling across Cuba (north, west, central and south), I was struck by how much land is/was occupied by the military (decrepit old buildings, firing ranges etc.), and how much is seemingly not used. In many areas, we rode through mile after mile of seemingly abandoned grassland. The regime does now allow people to undertake 'private' agriculture, but the people we spoke to about this (in the west of the country) said that the prices being charged by the government for leasing land were very high, almost too high to make it worthwhile. This is a country highly reliant on manual labour in the countryside, and those that work it do work hard.
Small towns off the tourist trail have very little in terms of a retail offering. There's maybe a roadside bar, a part-time ration store... It reminded me of rural Rajasthan (India), only the offering in rural Rajasthan is actually better.
And it's not just food that is a problem. We took bags of Western drugs to the people that run a city-centre nursery. That's one area where the US embargo has serious effects.
It's the same old story of communist countries and nationalised industries where there is no incentive to do a good job because why bother, you don't get paid any more. Most houses in Havana are falling apart as they are owned by the government, who haven't any money to repair them, if they had the inclination, and the residents don't have any money to repair them either, nor the inclination as they wouldn't get their money back. In a few years time Havanna will start falling down around their ears. If you go there don't walk down side of a residential side street if its raining or windy because lumps of stucco or even masonry are quite likely to fall on your head. It's that bad.
Old Havana *was* falling down, but over the last decade or more there's been a huge repairs and renovations programme. The seafront houses have almost all been fixed, and most of the iconic buildings too. Old mansions have been turned into quite nice hotels. And they have made a lot of headway on just about every street of architectural value, including renovation of ordinary homes, putting in proper sewers etc. There's a rather brilliant architect in charge of the whole project, who is getting masses of stuff done, and very well done. I don't think a western country would have managed to achieve so much, so well, in such a short space of time.
All this work is paid for by the tourists who visit the hotels: there's a kind of hotel tax that pays for it all. So by eating the indifferent food in the hotels, you are helping to get it all fixed.
(snip)
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